Install an electric hot water heater
Install an electric hot water heater
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Difficulty:
Close DifficultyBeginner Do-It-Yourselfer - EasyIntermediate Do-It-Yourselfer - ModerateExperienced Do-It-Yourselfer - DifficultProfessional - Expert - Completion Time : 1 Day
Some household projects are time-consuming. Installing a new electric hot water heater takes a day with a bit of plumbing and electrical skills. Our guide provides a step-by-step installation plan for fitting a new heater within the home. Keep in mind that there are many newer technologies for hot water heaters, so the new model may not fit into the same location as the existing unit as they tend to be larger in size. Plan the installation first on paper before embarking on its completion. Reading the manufacturer’s literature and following all local building codes are parts of the process.
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Tools and materials required
TOOLS
- Propane or Mapp gas torch
- Pipe cutter
- Paste soldering flux
- Several pads of steel wool
- Wire brush
- Wrench
- Tape measure
- Flathead screw driver
- Needlenose pliers
- Hammer
- Soft rag
MATERIALS
- Hot water heater storage tank, electric-fueled
- Concrete masonry units (concrete blocks) or drip pan accessory
- Copper pipe, 3/4" dia.; length is determined by plumbing design
- Pipe fittings per plumbing connection design
Union fittings
Sweat fittings
Male adapter
T connectors
- Shutoff valve
Ball or gate valve
- Tempering valve
- Lead-free solder; 95/5 tin-antimony or equivalent
- Silicone plumbing tape
- 10/2 electrical wire cable with ground
- Conduit connectors
- Wire nuts
- Electrical tape
Before Assembly
In a hot water tank storage system, unheated water enters one side of the tank. It is then heated by a couple of electric resistance elements and remains heated within the tank until demand when the hot water is delivered to each point of use.
The manufacturers’ instructions and all local building codes need to be read and followed before installation.
If removing an older unit, disconnect the electrical power close to the heater itself after the circuits are disconnected. Drain the heater completely. Send it out to be recycled if possible.
Installing a hot water heater will likely require the help of another person if attempting as a DIY project.
Turn off the electrical power from the circuit breaker box before beginning the installation.
Plan the system’s installation on paper first. In particular the plumbing and electrical parts of the system to plan ahead for purchasing parts.
Always use a pipe cutter, not a saw to cut the pipes.
If the hot water heater is turned on without a full tank of water, the heating element could burn out prematurely.
If the home has a closed system, read the manufacturer’s recommendations for modifications to the tank’s installation.
If the tank is a part of a solar hot water heating system, read the manufacturer’s recommendations for modifications to the tank’s installation.
TANK’S LOCATION TIPS
Locate the hot water tank close to the electrical panel.
More importantly, locate the tank close to points of use where hot water is typically used.
The tank’s location must also be indoors and sheltered from frost.
If placed in an unconditioned space, the pipes will need to be insulated. Likewise, the tank will need an extra insulation blanket.
Check the manufacturer for recommended clearances for all sides of the heater.
The drain and controls must be easily accessible.
Finally, locate the tank near a floor drain.
SOLDERING TIPS
The mating surfaces of the pipes and fittings must be clean and covered with flux.
Pipe cuts must be square.
The fittings cannot be bent or distorted.
Put on heavy soldering gloves for safety.
Wear eye protection.
Do not ever turn on a torch when there may be flammable gas or liquids nearby.
Do the soldering away from the hot water tank at all times as parts on the tank are not suitable for soldering.
TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) is a safety device that allows water to escape if the pressure inside the tank reaches a dangerous level.
Make sure the T&P valve is rated for the specific model of hot water tank purchased.
ELECTRICAL NEEDS
Check local building codes.
Apply for necessary permits.
Hire a professional if needed and if required by local building codes.
Verify the unit’s electrical needs with the manufacturer’s specifications.
A separate 220-volt circuit will be needed.
Typically a 30-amp circuit breaker is used.
The circuits and circuit breakers are probably already available and were used for the older model.
If the old model’s cable is intact and is long enough, it can be reused.
If the new model is located farther away from the electrical box as was the old model, then a junction box and new wiring will need to be extended.
Steps
1.1. Verify the location of the hot water tank purchased.
1.2. Close the valve of the water main for the property.
1.3. Set in place about three concrete blocks to use as the simple platform for the hot water heater. Alternatively, a hot water tank platform or drain pan accessory may be purchased.
1.4. Slide the tank onto the top of the blocks or platform while keeping the drain faucet facing the front.
1.5. Verify that both the blocks and the tank are stable and situated firmly without rocking.
2.1. Cut a 6"-8" long piece of 3/4" dia. piping for the cold water entrance line on the tank.
2.2. Clean at least 1" of the end of the pipe with steel wool.
2.3. Cover the end with soldering flux.
2.4. Clean the inside of the fittings with either steel wool or a wire brush designed for such.
2.5. Add flux to the inside of the fitting.
2.6. Slide the fitting over the pipe piece.
2.7. Apply the torch to the joint so that the flame has an inner blue flame that is about ¾" long.
2.8. Bring the tip of the blue flame to the joint and rotate the pipe until all the flux burns out. The pipe should now be hot enough to melt the solder.
2.9. Touch the tip of the solder stick to the joint and melt the solder into the joint. If the solder doesn’t melt right away, the pipe is not hot enough. Do not worry about overheating copper, it is a heat-resilient material.
2.10. Add solder to the joint until it drips out the bottom indicating the joint is full.
2.11. Remove the flame.
2.12. Wipe away excess solder with a soft rag.
3.1. Solder union fittings to the ends of both the cold and hot pipe lines so they can be removed in the future and the tank maintained if needed.
3.2. Apply silicone plumbing tape to seal the pipe threads on the tank’s fittings.
3.3. Thread the pipe with its union fitting end onto the tank’s fitting until tightened.
4.1. Attach the other pieces of the pipes together with connectors and nuts that fit for the plumbing design.
4.2. Follow the same soldering steps as done previously.
4.3. Add a ball or gate shutoff valve for the cold supply pipe.
4.4. Add a tempering valve in the domestic hot water line. The tempering valve is located between the cold and hot water pipes and is usually connected with T-connectors. A licensed plumber may be needed for this step.
5.1. Thread the T&P valve onto the tank and take a measurement from the bottom of the valve to the floor.
5.2. Deduct 4" from this length and cut a length of pipe to match.
5.3. Remove the T&P valve that is set temporarily onto the tank.
5.4. Cover the tank’s fitting with silicone plumbing tape.
5.5. Reinstall the valve onto the tank with the open end facing down to the floor.
5.6. Cover the male adapter with silicone plumbing tape.
5.7. Thread the drain pipe into the relief valve and tighten.
5.8. Double-check to make sure the open end of the pipe is 3" - 4" above the floor.
6.1. Make sure the new tank, in its final location, has a sufficiently long electrical supply cable.
6.2. Open the electrical access panel on the top of the tank to pull out the wires.
6.3. Open up a knockout on the top of the tank near the access panel and break it off with pliers.
6.4. Slide the threaded end of a conduit connector into the knockout hole and tighten into place with a connector nut.
6.5. Measure the distance from the top of the tank to the bottom of the joists and add 4" to determine the conduit length needed.
6.6. Cut the conduit at the aforementioned measured length.
6.7. Slide the free end of the cable into the top of the pipe and pull the cable out the bottom.
6.8. Slide the conduit into the tank through the connector fitting.
6.9. Tighten the cable pipe onto the top of the tank with connector screws.
6.10. Attach the ground wire from the cable to the grounding screw inside the tank opening.
6.11. Join the two white wires together with electrical tape and a wire nut.
6.12. Join the two black wires together with electrical tape and a wire nut.
6.13. Replace the electrical access cover plate.
7.1. Close the drain valve.
7.2. Fill the tank with water to check for leaks.
7.3. Set the thermometer at 120-130°F. Hot water should be available approximately one hour after turning on the unit.
7.4. Turn on the circuit breaker ONLY after the tank is full of water to check electrical power.
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