Phone: (289) 320-8250
1238 Dominion Road
Fort Erie, Ontario, L2A 1H7
The new generation of asphalt shingles will not only improve the look of any roof but are long-lasting and easier to install than the old three-tab models. Made with a fiberglass matt and laminated they are thicker and able to resist higher winds than ever before. Installing the new asphalt shingles is much the same as the older variety except the three-tab variety is still used for the ridge and starter rows. This is because they are thinner and easy to bend.
Installation requires accurate measuring and safety equipment such as safety ropes and harnesses. In addition steep roofs require staging and roof jacks to allow traction on the extreme slopes.
Check with local building officers to determine if a permit is required and what are the specific code requirements.
Try to get help from at least three other people. Each should wear a certified harness properly anchored to a roof truss and rubber soled shoes or boots for grip.
On steep roofs, install 2" X 4" boards parallel to the roofline or purchase roof jacks that can be installed to hold boards horizontally.
Anchor all ladders or provide proper staging.
Coordinate project with a lumber supply company so the shingles can be loaded directly onto the roof with a boom truck.
Position compressors for nail guns carefully so that there is enough hose and always use the nails recommended for the gun.
Whether the roof deck is boards, plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), make sure it is a level nailing surface. This can be checked with a straight, 10' piece of lumber. If one part of the deck is ¼" lower or higher than the one next to it there might be problems down the road.
Check the attic for ventilation especially in cold climates as a properly vented attic has shown to extend a shingle's life through cooling and preventing moisture from getting underneath the shingle.
Although building codes in different areas do not require roofing felt for underneath the shingles it is a good second line of defence against water if a shingle is damaged.
An average sized roof will take at least two days to complete so have waterproof tarps in case of rain of rain.
High levels of dust, strong winds, and certain other weather conditions can reduce the efficiency of the self-sealing strips.
1.1 Remove the old shingles, nails and, if applicable, roofing felt using a square shovel or roofer’s shovel (a special square shovel with teeth and a bent handle).
1.2 Clear all debris away and run an ice scraper over the deck to check for nails that were not removed with the old shingles.
1.3 Inspect the roof deck underneath and replace any damaged or rotten boards. The roof deck should be at least ½". If not, another layer of deck may have to be added. Add more nails or screws to sheathing that has lifted or seems loose.
1.4 If needed, install the saddle wood support for the chimney before the underlayment.
2.1 Install a metal drip cap along the bottom perimeters of the roof and eaves to prevent leaks and ice dams. On long edges, overlap sections by 2". Cut corner with a tin snip.
2.2 Install between 36" to 72" wide (depending on building code requirements) self-adhesive waterproofing membrane on all roof edges. The underlayment should overlap the metal drip by 3/8".
2.3 Place all vent pipes and other roof additions on the deck.
2.4 Start from the bottom of the roof. Place a 36" strip of self-adhesive membrane down the centre of the valley so that approximately 18" of membrane covers each side. Overlap section of the membrane by at least 12".
2.5 Install the flashing the length of the valley over the membrane.
2.6 Start to install the 15-lb or 30-lb felt paper at the bottom of the roof, overlapping the self-adhesive membrane by 6".
2.7 Cover the entire surface of the roof with 15-lb or 30-lb felt paper making sure to overlap each row. Cut holes for the chimney and vent.
2.8 Install the metal drip cap over the felt paper on the gable ends of the roof.
2.9 Install the chimney and vent flashings.
2.10 Prepare membrane sheets for these areas by cutting slits large enough to insert the flashing.
Depending on the type of shingles, some manufacturer suggest to start the installation in the center of the roof working left and right towards the rakes as some other manufacturer recommend starting at the left rake edge. Carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions. Whatever starting point you select, we recommend tracing guiding references lines to guide you and make sure shingles are straight.
3.1 Snap a vertical chalk line in the centre of the roof.
3.2 Snap a horizontal chalk reference line 5-10" from the lower framing header of the roof. Adjust the measurement depending on the type of shingles you are using. Keep in mind that the first row of shingles will overlap the eaves by approximately 3/8".
3.3 Snap horizontal chalk lines at regular distance to keep rows straight as you lay shingles.
If using architectural shingles buy a few extra bundles of three-tab shingles in the same colour for use as roof starter and ridge cover. This starter strip shingles should line up with the reference line.
4.1 Cut the first 5" off the notched side of the three-tabbed shingles to be used as starter.
4.2 Install the starter row “feet up” meaning that the cut or notched ends of the shingles must be pointing upwards from the roof edge. This starter row must overlap the roof edges by approximately 3/8".
4.3 Nail shingles at least 6" from the framing header. Use four nails per shingle and drive them 1" from the sides and ½" above each notch. It is important not to drive nails through the self-sealing strip. Furthermore, nails must be straight and flush with the surface of the shingles.
The second row is installed at the same place as the first row but “feet down”. Both layers finish the roof’s bottom edge.
5.1 Trim the first shingle half a tab, or 6", so that the joints are staggered.
5.2 Align the lower edge of the shingles with the top of the notches on the preceding row before nailing. The second row must overlap the roof edge by approximately 3/8".
5.3 Drive the nails 12" apart along the lower framing header.
5.4 Repeat this operation for every row. To give shingles good support at the peak of the roof, fold the shingles from the last row over the peak and nail them down on the other side.
5.5 Make sure to use the reference line and align the shingles.
5.6 Cover the entire surface until you reach to the ridge. Install shingles on all flat surfaces up to the ridge.
The open valley consists of a layer of metal along the length of the valley bent in the angle of the valley. Make sure the protective membrane and flashing were install previously.
6.1 Cover the valley with the flashing and drive in the nails at least 6" from the centre of the valley. Make sure sections overlap each other by 2", top section on top of the bottom one.
6.2 Seal the joint and nail holes with plastic cement. The shingles will cover this area.
6.3 Cut the shingles to fit the angle of the valley and bevel-cut their top corners to minimize the risk of water seepage.
The chimney might require a saddle if it is not install at the high end of the roof. The saddleredirect water and prevent accumulation of water.
7.1 Install the self-adhesive membrane sheet that was cut to allow an extra 4" up the sides of the chimney and a 12" edge around it on the roof.
7.2 Nail both lower corners of the base flashing to the roof and cement the top to the chimney with roofing cement.
7.3 Seal the joints with plastic cement.
7.4 Install step flashing as you cut and lay the shingles around the chimney. Make sure flashing overlap each other by 2". Always nail flashing with two nails on the roof and cement to the chimney.
7.5 Use previous grooves in the mortar to insert the counterflashing and cover the step flashing. If you cannot use the previous grooves, groove at least 1 ½" deep with a masonry blade. The counterflashing must overlap 3" over the step flashing.
7.6 Cover the saddle with a one-piece metal flashing.
7.7 Insert the counterflashing in the grooves to cover the saddle.
7.8 Apply plastic cement to seal the joints and improve their water-tightness.
Vent pipe flashing are placed over the bottom shingles. The lower section will be exposed as the upper section will be cover with shingles.
8.1 Cut the appropriate-sized hole in the shingle and nail it down.
8.2 Install a pre-formed flashing flange around the vent pipe and then glue it in place with plastic cement.
8.3 Continue install the shingles and make sure to completely cover the upper edge of the flashing.
Most new roofs are installed with a ridge vent to help ventilate the attic.
9.1 Trace a chalk line 7/8" from the peak on both side of the roof. For trusses, the gap should be 1 ¾" across peak. Leave 8" to 10" along a wall or a chimney.
9.2 Measure the thickness of the sheeting with a tape measure and adjust the circular saw blade to that measurement.
9.3 Cut the sheeting with the circular and make sure to avoid the rafter. Follow both chalk line along the peak.
9.4 Use a wood chisel to complete the cut at the ends.
9.5 Remove the sheeting along the peak with a ply bar. Remove all nails along the cut.
9.6 Position ridge vent and nail at the top around the roof crevice. Cover the entire peak. Cut section as required.
9.7 Use precut shingles squares or cut three-tab shingles into square pieces. Then cut the upper corners of each piece at 45o.
9.8 Using 1 ½" or 1 ¾" roofing nails, nail the shingle pieces into place on both sides starting from the end of the ridge that faces the prevailing wind. Install the shingles so that each one overlaps the last by half of shingle visible.
9.9 Repeat this process for the roof hips.
10.1 Cut the overlapping edges using a metal ruler and utility knife.
10.2 Glue down the shingles on each edge of the roof and those along the top using plastic cement. This will guard against leakage.
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