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Détails Details

Install baseboards

  • Difficulty: hammer hammer
    Close Difficulty
    Beginner Do-It-Yourselfer - Easy
    Intermediate Do-It-Yourselfer - Moderate
    Experienced Do-It-Yourselfer - Difficult
    Professional - Expert
  • Completion Time : Week-end

Installing baseboard trim will frame your interior walls. Not only do baseboards add an essential finishing touch, by covering the joints between the walls and the floor they bring continuity to the flooring.

All it takes to install perfect baseboards, even on crooked walls, is a few household tools and the right style of baseboard trim for your home.

In this project, we propose that you install your baseboards with coped joints instead of mitre joints for the inside corners. The pieces will have a better fit as they expand and contract, so no gaps will develop.


Tools and materials required


  • Mitre saw, or Mitre box with saw

  • Mitre saw cutting supports, or Saw horses

  • Caulking gun

  • Tape measure

  • Hammer or Power nailing gun

  • Stud finder

  • Level

  • Coping saw

  • Round file

  • Square


  • Baseboards

  • Wood glue

  • Wall panel adhesive

  • Paintable caulking

  • Finishing nails or Power brad Nailer

Before Assembly


Taking measurements is an essential step in order to determine the quantity of mouldings required and the exact length of each piece.

Calculate the length of each wall using a tape measure. Add 12" to 24" for each wall to account for losses resulting from angle cuts. If there are obstructions that prevent you from installing mouldings (i.e. electrical baseboard, furniture, etc.), don’t forget to subtract them from the total length. If you are installing mouldings around a door or a window, determine the height and the width of each opening.

For aesthetic reasons, opt for long mouldings. For example, in the case of a 14' wall, use a 16' moulding rather than two 8' mouldings. You will reduce the number of joints and enhance the look of your mouldings.

The baseboards can be made from vinyl, painted wood or a medium density fiber (MDF). They can be 16’ long so it is important to set up supports at the height of the mitre saw to hold the mouldings in place. These could be sawhorses built up to height or adjustable supports with rollers.

Set up the mitre saw in a well-ventilated area outside the room to avoid dust.

Use a good-quality finishing blade with a minimum of 40 teeth, though 80 teeth is preferable since the more teeth a blade has, the cleaner the cut.

Before you start, allow the mouldings to acclimatize for 24 to 48 hours in the room where they will be installed.

You can paint or stain your mouldings in advance. You will simply need to touch them up a bit after, and cover the nail heads you’ve concealed with wood filler. This actually simplifies the job, because you won’t need to do any masking.

Mouldings can be fastened with finishing nails or a power nailer. Never use nails longer than 2" as you might hit a wire; 1 ½" nails are perfect for the job. For a cleaner, more professional job, use a brad power nailer. Pre-drill your nail holes so that mouldings do not split. Use a drill bit of a smaller size than the nails.

Lay flooring before installing baseboard to avoid unsightly voids and an uneven look.

On a long wall, shorter pieces can maintain the look of continuity by mitering the joints rather than having them butt together.


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