Flower boxes are must-have additions on a treated-wood terrace. They add colour, style and fashion to the look of the home. The model illustrated here features a false bottom lined with polystyrene board and a polyethylene film to support a flower pot and prevent the deterioration of the wood from water. For a professional look the sides can be lined with boards positioned at 45°.
In addition, use treated-wood screws (porcelain coated or stainless steel) to build your flower box, otherwise you'll be faced with traces of rust after a few years.
1.1. Draw the base of the flower box on graph paper marking out. There should be two equal long sides and two equal shorter ones unless the shape is to be square, where the sides are equal.
1.2. Cut four 2" × 6" boards to the required length (A) for the shape of the box.
1.3. Drill two holes in the ends of the short pieces and attach them to the longer, side pieces. Do this on a flat surface so that the frame with be straight.
1.4. Measure the length and width of the frame and cut two pieces of ½" plywood or 5/8" oriented strand board (B) to the correct dimensions. The second board will be used for the false bottom.
1.5. Screw the plywood (B) to the frame (A).
2.1. Cut four boards to the required dimensions to be used as sides for the flower box (C).
2.2. Cut two pieces of 2" × 2" wood to match the entire length of two opposite sides (C). These should be the longer sides if the box is rectangular.
2.3. Make three marks 12" from the top of the sides and draw a line to join the marks. This measurement can be adjusted but both sides have to be equal.
2.4. Attach the 2" × 2" wood strips along the lines (C). The strips will support the false bottom you will insert later.
2.5. Screw in the four sides to the outside of the base, leaving a ½" space between the lower edge of the sides and the bottom of the base so the plywood will not be in direct contact with the ground. This will avoid swelling of the plywood caused by the absorption of water.
3.1. Cut eight 2" × 4" studs in lengths equivalent to the height of your flower box, from the lower edge of the base to the upper edge of the plywood. These will support the corners.
3.2. Cut one corner of each board at a 45° angle.
3.3. Attach the boards to the vertical edges of the box to form the four corners (D).
3.4. Attach, horizontally, pre-cut 2" × 4" studs along the base and the top of the box, between the corners in so as to go around the box (E).
4.1. Accurately measure the side boards so you can end up with a nice finish.
4.2. Cut 1" × 6" boards at a 45° angles to cover the outside of the four sides
4.3. Nail them into the plywood, leaving no spaces between the boards (F). For a different look, you can nail the boards vertically or horizontally.
5.1. Attach, horizontally, 1 ¼" × 4" boards (treated decking) to the upper edge cutting the ends at 45° angles in such a way as to form corners where the boards meet (G).
6.1. Measure and cut 1" × 6" boards the length of the interior of the box.
6.2. Drop them at right angle (perpendicular) to the strips in such a way as to create the false bottom (H).
For polystyrene film lining:
6.3. Line the false bottom and inner sides of the box.
6.4. Make neat folds and then trim the parts that stick over the top of the flower box.
6.5. Tape the folds and pull the plastic out. It should have the shape of the box.
For polystyrene panels lining:
6.6. Cut and place the bottom piece first.
6.7. Measure and cut to fit the four side panels according to the new dimensions.
6.8. Remove and apply construction glue on the false bottom and sides panels.
6.9. Place side panels back and firmly press.
6.10. Apply exterior silicone caulking to all the joints between the panels.
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