Table saws

The table saws presented here are listed according to type: portable, mobile, semi-portable and stationary.

Portable Table Saws
Portable table saws are light and compact and can easily be transported outside the house or to jobsites. They are often used for construction work. They have few removable parts (which risk being lost in transport) and sometimes include a collapsible base.

Mobile Table Saws
Mobile table saws are equipped with a folding metal base on wheels. They can be used like portable table saws, but they are slightly heavier and longer. They can be easily moved around a workshop, garage or jobsite and can be tucked away when not in use.

Semi-portable Table Saws
Semi-portable table saws are equipped with a rigid metal base that can be attached with bolts. The table saw and base can be also integrated (high-end or professional units). The saw and base can be moved easily by two people. An inexpensive unit weighs as much as a portable or mobile one, whereas a high-end or professional unit can weigh twice as much or more, due to its more powerful motor and stronger, thicker table.

The most common type of workshop table saw, because it takes up little space and offers a good combination of power, stability and excellent cutting accuracy that meets most needs.

Stationary Table Saws
Stationary table saws are preferred by professional and semi-professional cabinetmakers for their power and precision. Equipped with a robust motor, a large table and a fixed base that can be bolted to the floor, these units may require a special electrical hookup since they are usually fitted with a 220-volt motor (and cannot therefore be plugged into a regular wall outlet in Canada).

1 -Motor
The majority of table saws use a 110-volt direct drive motor, which is adequate for most jobs. For higher-end or professional units, the motor is usually linked to the blade with a belt, reducing vibration. Belt-driven table saws are preferred by cabinetmakers, who require extremely accurate cuts.

A motor's power is determined by the number of amperes; the higher the amperage, the more powerful the motor. Amperage varies between 10 and 18 amps for a horsepower (HP) rating of 1.5 to 4. A 15-amp, 2-HP table saw is powerful enough for most applications. Professional and high-end units equipped with a 220-volt motor have a rated capacity of more than 2 HP.

2- Rip Fence
A rip fence is a moveable gate that moves sideways, perpendicular to the table surface. It functions as a guide, allowing wood to be cut to the proper size.

The majority of units use a sliding fence. Screws adjust the squareness and lock the fence in place. Always check that the fence is completely locked before operating a saw.

Rip fences often come with holes for attaching a scrap of wood ("sacrifice stock") to prevent fence damage (e.g. for bevelled cuts). The markings on the fence rule may be adjustable on some units.

On some portable table saws, the rip fence is on a track. This system is more accurate and allows for quick calibration. As the fence is permanently attached to the table, it cannot fall off or be lost; however, it limits the size of the pieces you can cut.

3 - Table
This is the work surface on which the wood slides. Entry-level portable and semi-portable table saws have small table surfaces which limit cuts to a 12" maximum (the fence cannot go further). Ideal for small jobs.

For greater versatility, select a table saw with a long table or one that can extend to accommodate larger stock. A 27" to 30" table is good for most do-it-yourselfers, semi-professionals or professionals. Check to see if the fence at its maximum is at least 24" from the blade (i.e. allows for 4' x 8' rips).

Check also that the table's extensions are strong. The best units come with optional extensions that fit existing receptacles.

Certain models offer a rear extendable support to handle larger pieces or a lateral sliding table for wider stock.

4 - Blade
Manufacturers usually equip table saws with a general-purpose blade for all kinds of uses. A multi-purpose blade is recommended for the highest quality and cleanest cuts.

5 - Rule or Scale
The rule or scale is used to make accurate cuts. Some saws have an engraved scale, while other models offer self-adhesive rules that the user installs.

6 - Blade Guard
The blade guard is made up of two pieces of plastic attached to one another by a fixed metal stem. Covering the exposed blade, it moves as the wood passes over the blade and repositions automatically after the cut. It is attached to the splitter, a thin piece of metal installed vertically behind the blade and is about the same thickness as the blade. The splitter keeps wood on either side of the blade from closing up and causing kickback. Often attached directly to the motor, the splitter raises and lowers with the blade guard.

The blade guard must never be removed unless it is to be replaced by another more professional unit.

7 - Anti-kickback Pawl
The anti-kickback pawl prevents the blade from ejecting wood back toward the user and causing injury or damage. It consists of two rigid metal parts with jagged teeth, located on either side of the blade. During cutting, the teeth slide along the wood, keeping it in place and reducing the risk of kickback. This device must never be removed from the saw.
 
8 - Elevator Wheel
Wheel located at the front of the saw to adjust the blade height. For best results and to ensure safety, it is advisable to set the blade 1/4" higher than the thickness of the wood. The wheel must be turned smoothly, without jerking. On certain models, the wheel also adjusts the blade angle (see Blade Angle Wheel).

9 - Blade Angle Wheel
Wheel located at the front or on the side of the saw to adjust the blade angle from 0° to 45°. Angle accuracy depends on the quality of the saw. Entry-level models may not have this wheel. The desired angle is set by unlocking the blade tilt handle and moving the wheel sideways.

10 - Blade Tilt Handle
Handle used to lock the blade angle in place (see Blade Angle Wheel). Always check the handle is in the lock position before operating the saw.

11 - On/Off Switch
The On/Off switch prevents accidental start-up and is easy to stop by simply pressing with the knee. Some switches are equipped with plastic covers that prevent the saw from operating when unattended. Another type of switch has holes in it so it can be padlocked.

12 - Mitre Gauge
A mitre gauge consists of a swiveling, protractor-style head attached to a metal bar. It ensures wood is cut at a precise angle. It looks like a T-square and fits snugly into a channel in the table.

13 - Exhaust Duct (Not on the picture)
A special outlet connected to a vacuum cleaner or dust filter. Some units are equipped with a dust collection bag under the table saw. It is also possible to fit a custom-made box under the table saw to collect the dust.

14 – Weight (Not on the picture)
The heavier the table saw, the more stable it is. Bolting it to the floor also increases stability.

15 - Table Insert
This removable plate allows easy access to the blade. The slot is wide enough for the blade to pass, but thin enough to prevent small pieces from slipping through. Check that the insert is flush with the table surface. A plate with a large slot is used for dado blades.

16 - Storage
Some units have a storage area for removable items or accessories (e.g. electrical cord, replacement blades, push stick and mitre gauges).

17 - Bolt Holes
Tables saws usually have holes for bolting the feet (if applicable) to the floor or to the base. Certain portable units can be attached to their bases without bolts, facilitating installation and removal.

All table saws have similar features and can do the same basic job. The tool's power, accuracy and capabilities will depend on the amount you choose to invest.

Under $200:

• Cuts wood up to 2" thick with ease
• Rips 2" stock and cuts pieces up to 3", but this must be done slowly as not to overtax the motor.
• Perfect for occasional jobs; neither highly accurate nor very fast.

From $200 to $500:

• Cuts wood up to 3" thick easily and more quickly than models under $200.
• Rip fence is more accurate, as is calibration.
• Large pieces can be cut due to longer, extendable table.
• Ideal choice for do-it-yourselfers.

From $500 to $800:

• Cuts thicker pieces faster and more easily.
• Greater accuracy and dependability.
• Sometimes equipped with accessories for precision work or for other specific jobs.
• For regular use by professionals or semi-professionals.

Over $800:

• Optimum stability, power and precision.
• Less noisy due to belt drive.
• For heavy-duty use.
• The choice of professional cabinetmakers. 

The most important table saw accessory is a "push stick", a piece of wood which is used to push the wood toward the blade safely.

A table saw is completely functional, but is more versatile and efficient with the following accessories.

Must Haves:

• A multi-purpose blade with 40 teeth
• A finish blade with 100 teeth
• Roller stands to manage long or wide pieces, placed behind or beside the saw

Nice to Have:

• Table extensions
• Dado blade
• Mobile base