Build a console table
Build a console table
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Difficulty:
Close DifficultyBeginner Do-It-Yourselfer - EasyIntermediate Do-It-Yourselfer - ModerateExperienced Do-It-Yourselfer - DifficultProfessional - Expert - Completion Time : 4 Hours
This elegant and versatile console table, 42" long by 12" wide, is built from pine and hardwood. It is easy to build but requires some previous experience with tools since a router is needed for the finishing work.
The table is held together by small pre-drilled blocks, or cleats, which give more stability to this small piece of furniture. The cleats, well hidden under the table, allow access to the screws in case they need to be tightened. Personalize your table by painting or staining it in a colour that will blend perfectly with your decor or by applying a “crackle” type faux finish.
Print
Tools and materials required
TOOLS
- Mitre saw
- Router
- Driver drill
- Countersink drill bit
- Clamp
- Square
- Pencil
- Measuring tape
MATERIALS
- 1 pine board 11/16" x 12" x 48"
- 1 pine board ¾" x 4" x 96"
- 1 wood strip ¾" x ¾" x 72"
- 4 hardwood table legs
- Arabesques
- 1", No. 8 screws
- 1 ½" No. 8 screws
- Wood glue
Before Assembly
NOTES
Suggestion
You could just as easily make a piano bench based on the same plan, using hardwood for all the parts (including the cleats) and making the legs shorter.
Note on routers
The router is a motorized tool that can be equipped with a variety of cutters, or bits, making it extremely versatile. Router bits exist for making mouldings, carving grooves (e.g. for inserting drawer bottoms or cabinet door panels), giving a more professional look to the edges of pieces of stock (boards, shelves, tables), finishing surfaces and making dovetail joints. Router bits are often sold in sets, usually with illustrations of the patterns that they can cut.
Depending on the model of router and type of work involved, the user either moves the router along the fixed material (e.g. to follow curves) or moves the material itself along a fixed router table (e.g. to carve grooves). A number of routers are designed to be used either way and can be fastened upside down under a router table.
Steps
1.1 Cut the pine board down to 42" and sculpt all four rims (edges) of one side with a router.
1.2 Using the router, sculpt just one edge of the ¾" x 4" board, then cut the board into two short sides of 6 3/8" and two long sides of 36 ¼".
1.3 Cut the ¾" wood strip into 14 cleats of 3 ½". These cleats are used for screwing the sides to the legs and the top.
1.4 Prepare the 8 cleats used for screwing the sides to the legs. To do this, pre-drill 2 holes 1 ½" apart on one side of the cleat and 2 holes on the adjacent side, staggered slightly so that the screws will not come into contact.
1.5 Prepare the 6 cleats used for screwing the sides to the top by pre-drilling 2 holes on one side of the cleat and just one hole on the other.
2.1 Screw 2 cleats to the top of each leg so that their edges are touching (1 ½" No. 8 screws).
2.1 Screw 2 cleats to the top of each leg so that their edges are touching (1 ½" No. 8 screws).
2.3 Lean the end of one of the 2 the long sides against one of the legs’ cleat, then screw from the inside.
2.4 Repeat this step with another leg and screw it to the opposite end of the long side.
2.5 Take the second long side and screw the other 2 legs to it.
2.6 Complete the construction of the base by screwing the ends of the short sides into the leg cleats.
2.7 Lay and centre the tabletop flat and place the base on it.
2.8 Fasten through the pre-drilled holes in the cleats.
3.1 Mark the centre of the front panel.
3.2 Glue on the arabesques.
3.3 Sand all surfaces.
3.4 Paint, stain or varnish.
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