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Building a one-level deck |
Relax this summer on this 12 ft. × 12 ft. deck. It's single level, elevated and secured to the house, has a balustrade and there are steps to the lawn.
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1. Lay out the deck | |
Use string and stakes to trace the perimeter of the deck. Be sure that the strings that run from the house are perpendicular to the house (use the 3 - 4 - 5 rule, measure 3' on one side, 4' on the adjacent side and the diagonal measurement should be 5' if the corner is square). |
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2. Building the foundation | |
From the standpoint of construction stability, we suggest you build a piers with a footing. However, you can find out about the step-by-step construction of other types of foundations also: Piers without footings and Dek-Blocks® (if you deck is close to the ground) The types of foundations for your deck. |
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3.1 |
Preparing the soil
If it hasn't already been done, use a gardener's hoe to remove the grass within the delineated perimeter. Cover the area with a geotextile sheet over which you will lay a 1 to 2 in. (2.54 or 5 cm) coat of gravel. |
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3.2 |
Installing ledger board
In order to be able to attach the terrace to the house, you'll need to install a ledger board to the outside wall of the house. It will determine the height of the terrace floor. Be sure it's on he level and at the same height as the floor of the house. To avoid water infiltration, you can caulk a drip cap on top of the ledger board (a drip cap is a "L" shaped piece of aluminum)
The following sub-sections are divided into two categories: from 3.2.1. to 3.2.7 for Brick or concrete siding and from 3.2.8 to 3.2.17 for Clapboard siding. |
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3.2.1 |
Brick or concrete siding
Cut the ledger board(2 in. × 10 in./5 × 25 cm beam) to the required length. |
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3.2.3 | |
Place the end joist against the wall exactly where it's to be installed. Be sure it's level. |
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3.2.4 | |
Insert a marker through the bolt holes and mark the wall. Remove the ledger board. |
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3.2.5 | |
Using a hammer drill, preferably, install lead anchor plugs in the wall, where marked, making sure they're flush with the wall. |
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3.2.6 | |
Replace the end joist against the wall and lag bolt it into place, making sure you use a washer before screwing in the lag bolt. |
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3.2.7 | |
To avoid water infiltration, you can caulk a drip cap on top of the ledger board (a drip cap is a "L" shaped piece of aluminum). |
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3.2.8 |
Clapboard siding
Cut the ledger board (2 in. × 10 in./5 × 25 cm beam) to the required length. |
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3.2.9 | |
Drill bolt holes through the ledger board. |
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3.2.10 | |
Place the end joist against the clapboard exactly where it's to be installed. Trace the perimeter of the ledger board. |
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3.2.11 | |
Using a circular saw with its blade adjusted to ½ in. (1.2 cm) or less, cut through the clapboard. This will give you access to the house end joist to which you will attach the deck ledger board. |
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3.2.12 | |
Install a Z-shaped, flexible, flashing, making sure the house end joist remains visible. |
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3.2.13 | |
Replace the deck's ledger board against the house making sure it is level. |
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3.2.14 | |
Insert a marker through the terrace end joist bolt holes and mark the house end joist where required. Remove the ledger board. |
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3.2.15 | |
Using a drill, predrill holes in the houses's ribbon joist for the lag bolts. |
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3.2.16 | |
Replace the ledger board against the wall and screw it in place, making sure you use a washer before screwing in the lag bolt. |
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3.2.17 | |
To avoid water infiltration, you can caulk a drip cap on top of the ledger board (a drip cap is a "L" shaped piece of aluminum). |
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3.3 |
Girders
Beams are built of two 2 in. × 10 in. (5 cm × 25 cm) beams, laminated to each other. They rest on concrete piers to which they're attached by means of post saddles.
Note that it's preferable that the beam that is farther from the house be lower than that which is closer to the house. You should plan on a drop of ¼in. per foot in order to provide adequate water run-off.
Note that it's preferable that the beam that is farther from the house be lower than that which is closer to the house. You should plan on a drop of 1/8 to per foot in order to provide adequate water run-off. |
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3.4 |
The joists
The structure of the floor for the upper level is similar to that of the lower level, save for a few details. Joists are to be installed perpendicular, at 16 in. (40.6 cm) centres, to the ledger with joist hangers. |
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3.4.1 | |
Cut the joists to the required length. |
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3.4.2 | |
Once you've levelled the joist, starting from the other end, anchor it to the ledger using joist hangers. |
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3.4.3 | |
Attach the double joists to the girder by driving nails at 45° on either side. Single joists can either be nailed or attached by means of brackets. |
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3.4.4 | |
Cap the ends of the joists above the end beam using the same material as you used for the joists. Drive at lease two nails through the ribbon joist into the end of every joist. The ribbon joist will serve as a brace. |
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3.5 |
Laying the decking
There are several types of decking material available in wood, wood plastic blends and even vinyl. Please talk to an expert to help you select the right decking for you.
Please note that the following instructions are for installation of a solid wood decking. |
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3.5.1 | |
Install a first board flush with the ribbon joist. Then lay down the remaining boards, using nails as spacers. Adjust the spaces so as to cover the entire floor surface without having to rip the last board against the house. |
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3.5.2 | |
Once all the boards are in place and correctly spaced, screw or nail them floor joists. If you are screwing the deck boards down please pre-drill a hole to reduce splitting. |
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3.5.3 | |
Remove the nails you used as spacers. |
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3.5.4 |
To dress up the perimeter of the deck you can run a 1" × 8" lumber around the deck and fasten it with finish nails.
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