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Building a two-level deck |
Most people build a deck as an outdoor extension to their kitchen. Others design it around their pool, as a play area for the kids or as part of a complex landscaping component. Whatever its use, a deck adds to the value of your home and provides a focal point for enjoying the outdoors.
Get your own free plan for this deck (Model ABT-1023) as well as the the list of materials required for the project. For viewing and printing, you will need Acrobat Reader software.
Ontarian residential construction regulations require that anyone in this province who wish to construct a building of 10 square metres or more, separate or attached to an existing building, obtain a BCIN accreditation (Building Code Identification Number) for their plan for an extra charge. Contact a Planimage representative as quickly as possible to obtain additional information on this subject either by phone: 450-641-7526 or email: info@planimage.com. |
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1. Laying out the perimeter of the deck | |
Use string and stakes to trace the perimeter of the terrace. Be sure that the strings that run from the house are perpendicular to the house (use the 3-4-5 rule, measure 3' in one direction and 4' on the adjacent leg the diagonal dimmenion should be 5' if the corner is square). If yours is a two-level deck, layout both levels. |
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2. Building the foundation | |
From the standpoint of construction stability, we suggest you build a foundation with footings. However, you can also find out about the step-by-step construction of other types of foundations such as: Concrete pillars with footings and Dek-Blocks® (if your deck is close to the ground by visiting the project entitled The types of foundations for your patio). |
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3. Building the frame | |
We suggest you wear safety glasses through the actual construction steps. |
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3.1 |
Preparing the soil
If it hasn't already been done, use a gardener's hoe to remove the grass within the perimeter of the deck. Cover the area with a geotextile sheet over which you will lay a 1" to 2" (2.54 or 5 cm) layer of gravel. |
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3.2 |
Installing the end joist
In order to be able to attach the deck to the house, you'll need to install an ledger board to the outside wall of the house. It will determine the height of the deck. Be sure it's level and at the same height as the floor of the house.
In the sub-steps we introduce 2 ways of working depending on your type of sidings: Brick or concrete siding (steps 3.2.1 to 3.2.7) or Clapboard siding (steps 3.2.8 to 3.2.17). |
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3.2.1 |
Brick or concrete
Cut the ledger board (2" × 10"/5 × 25 cm beam) to the required length. |
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3.2.3 | |
Place the end joist against the wall exactly where it's to be installed. Be sure it is level. |
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3.2.4 | |
Insert a marker through the bolt holes and mark the wall. Remove the ledger board. |
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3.2.5 | |
Using a hammer drill, install lead shields in the wall , where marked, making sure they're flush with the wall. |
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3.2.6 | |
Replace the ledger board against the wall and screw it in place, making sure you use a washer before screwing in the lag bolt. |
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3.2.7 | |
To avoid water infiltration, caulk an aluminum drip cap on top of the ledger board. |
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3.2.8 |
Clapboard siding
Cut the ledger board (2" × 10"/5 × 25 cm beam) to the required length. |
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3.2.9 | |
Drill bolt holes through the ledger board. |
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3.2.10 | |
Place the ledger board against the siding exactly where it's to be installed. Trace the perimeter of the ledger board. |
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3.2.11 | |
Using a circular saw with its blade adjusted to the thickness of the siding, cut through the clapboard. This will give you access to the house end ribbon joist to which you will attach the ledger board. |
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3.2.12 | |
Caulk a drip cap in place making sure the top tab is slid under the siding. |
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3.2.13 | |
Replace the ledger board against the house making sure it is level. |
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3.2.14 | |
Insert a marker through the ledger board bolt holes and mark the house end joist where required. Remove the ledger board. |
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3.2.15 | |
Predrill holes for the lag bolts. |
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3.2.16 | |
Replace the end joist against the wall and screw it in place, making sure you use a washer before screwing in the lag bolt. |
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3.2.17 | |
Caulk the underside of the drip cap to the ledger board. |
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3.3 |
Beams
Girders are built of two 2 in. × 10 in. (5 cm × 25 cm) beams, laminated together. They are attached to posts with brackets.
Note that it's preferable that the beams that are further from the house be lower than that which is closer to the house. You should plan on a drop of 1/8 to ¼ in. per foot in order to provide adequate water run-off. |
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4. Building the lower level | |
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4.1 |
The floor joists
The floor joists are made of 2" × 8" (5 × 25 cm) beams, installed perpendicular to the beams and spaced on 16" (40.6 cm) centres. While floor joists are single pieces, end joists are double. |
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4.1.1 | |
Cut the floor joists to the required length. |
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4.1.2 | |
Lay the floor joists perpendicular to the beams, on 16" (40,6 cm) centres, securing them in place with single or double brackets, as needed. Be sure they slope away from the house to allow for water run-off. |
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4.2 |
Installing the decking
There are many decking materials available wood, composition, vinyl, etc... this section deals with installing a wood decking material. |
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4.2.1 | |
Install a first board flush with the end joist. Then lay down the remaining boards, leaving spaces of 1/8" (0.32 cm) between them, using nails as spacers. Adjust the spaces gradually so as to cover the entire floor surface without having to rip a board. |
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4.2.2 | |
Once all the boards are in place and correctly spaced, predrill two holes per floor joist and screw down with a deck screw. |
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4.2.3 | |
Remove the nails you used as spacers. |
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4.2.4 | |
Finish the visible upper edge of the end joist by covering it with a 1" × 4" (2.5 × 10 cm) board that will serve as a finishing moulding. |
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4.3 |
Building the staircase
Build the lower level staircase in more or less the same fashion as the floor. Steps are 10" or 11" (25.4 or 28 cm). You can build the staircase frame and attach it to the beam and the end joist. |
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4.3.1 | |
Cut 2" × 10" ( 5 × 25.4 cm) to the required length for your stairs. Likewise, cut the blocking (perpendicular) to the required length, according to your plan or to the required depth of the stairs. |
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4.3.2 | |
Using an drill, screw the blocking in the end joists at 16 in. (40.6 cm) intervals, centre to centre, through the outside of the stair ribbon/end joist. |
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4.3.3 | |
Level the gravel in the area where you plan to lay the foot of the staircase and cover it with square 18" or 24" (45.7 or 61 cm) concrete slabs so that when the staircase is installed it will rest completely on the slabs. |
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4.3.4 | |
Using an drill, attach the frame to the beam or the end joist with screws, depending on whether the staircase is to be located at the front or the side of the deck, making sure it's at the correct height. |
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4.3.5 | |
Cut 2 in. × 6 in. (5 × 15.2 cm) boards to the required length to build the stair treds. Using an drill, drive two screws in each board through each of the stair blocks. |
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4.4 |
Frame in a short wall
The concrete piers found at the junction of the upper and lower levels of the deck will be used to support both upper and lower floors. Given the difference in height between the levels of the terrace, it will be necessary for you to build a short wall.
You can build a short wall using 2" × 4" (5 × 10 cm) boards. Use a single board for the sill plate and two for the double plate (top). |
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4.4.1 | |
Determine the total height of the short wall by subtracting the height from the bottom of the ledger board (attached to the house) and the total height of the first level. |
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4.4.2 | |
Once the floor is laid, cut the boards you'll need for the end joist, the double plate and the studs. |
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4.4.3 | |
Attach the sill plate to the end of the lower floor, screwing it directly into the beam, through the floor. |
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4.4.4 | |
Nail the studs on both sides at a 45° angle, at 12-in. (30.4 cm) intervals. Use double studs at each end to add strength to the structure. |
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4.4.5 | |
Attach the double plate to the studs in the same fashion. |
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