Planting trees, shrubs, evergreens, roses and climbing plants

To ensure the success of planting, it is important to choose plants so that they are adapted to surrounding conditions. The choice must also take into account the resistance of different cultivars to diseases and insects.

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Things to consider
Planting period
Planting location
Planting technique
Planting roses
Planting climbing plants
General maintenance after planting

Things to consider

Here are some things to consider when selecting plants before making a choice:
  • Size of the plant at maturity;
  • Hours of sunlight in the location of planting;
  • Climate conditions of the location (wind, rigour of winter);
  • Plant’s resistance to insects, diseases and other problems like de-icing salts;
  • Watering needs;
  • Type of soil (texture, structure, drainage, pH, etc.);
  • Presence of nearby factors (power lines, house, road, neighbour’s yard, plants already in place, etc.);
  • Plant’s use (windbreak, sound barrier, shade, up-grading the landscape, etc.).

Planting period

Planting from containers or root ball (burlapped):
  • Can be done throughout the season unless the root ball breaks. In that case, follow the method on planting bare root plants;
  • For spring planting, make sure that the soil is thawed and sufficiently dry to be workable;
  • Avoid planting less hardy plants in fall. In late fall planting of smaller species; one can observe rising of the root ball the following spring, consequence of the freezing soil.

Planting bare root plants:
  • Is done before bud breaks or during dormancy in the fall. Their recovery is riskier than those in containers or root balls.

Shrubs for hedges are sometimes available bare root. However, the choice of varieties available bare root is now limited. The purchase of these plants is much more economical because you don’t pay for the container, the soil or potting time.

Planting location

  • Ensure to place the plant in the appropriate location;
  • Plant small trees and shrubs at least 1 m away from foundations and bigger species 10 to 15 m from the house;
  • In groupings and hedges, respect some distance between plants according the average spread of the species at maturity;
  • Avoid planting larger trees near power lines, drain fields and other obstacles that might hinder their development.

Planting technique

It is important to prepare the soil as woody plants will remain in place for many years.
  • Dig a planting hole 2 to 3 times wider than the diameter of the pot and so that the sides are not parallel but angled;
  • Dig a trench for groupings or hedges;
  • Check the depth, it should correspond to the height of the pot;
  • For poorly drained soils, it should be planted on a mound. The depth of the hole should correspond to two thirds the height of the root ball. Fill up the part of the root ball above ground forming a mound;
  • Remove the plant from the pot (plastic and cardboard) making sure not to break the root ball;
  • If roots are coiled around the pot, cut by practicing three or four incisions with a knife (up and down), taking care not to undo the root ball. This procedure can be done if the plant is not in full growth and / or planting is not done in scorching heat;
  • If you notice that the root ball is fragile or loose during the removal of the pot, it is possible to place the plant with its pot in the hole. Cut and carefully remove the bottom part of the pot. Then, make an incision from top to bottom on each sides of the pot and bury the root ball. From that moment, pull slowly on the edge of the pot to remove it without breaking the root ball. This procedure may be useful for newly potted plants and when the roots are young and fragile;
  • Place the collar at the same level as in its original container (see figure);
  • Leave the wire basket in the soil, but cut the cables or the jute around the trunk;
  • Mix the soil from the hole with peat moss and compost to lighten it. We recommend 2 parts excavated soil for 1 part of amendment (compost). Add bone meal or mycorrhiza;
  • If needed, adjust the pH with horticultural lime. Ideally, make a soil analysis before planting. Bring a soil sample in-store;
  • Fill the hole with the amended soil;
  • Pack the earth and water abundantly to eliminate air pockets;
  • When water is drained, fill the hole and make a water trough (see figure);
  • For trees that need it, place a stake facing prevailing winds;
  • Cover the water trough with 5 to 10 cm of peat moss, bark or mulch to prevent weeds and to keep soil moist. Using a landscape fabric under the mulch is even more effective to control weeds;
  • Water thoroughly. Avoid applying soluble fertilizer if you’ve incorporated mycorrhiza in the planting hole;
  • Then, water frequently making sure that the water penetrates at least 30 cm deep;
  • Remove plant’s label.

Planting roses

It’s similar to planting shrubs but with some precautions. Soil preparation is essential to cultivate roses for more vigorous plants and abundant flowering. The ideal soil is fertile, well drained and stays lightly humid at all times. Clayey or sandy soils must be amended for roses to develop properly. When planting, it is important not to disturb the root system because recovering will be much longer. If the purchase of bagged or boxed roses is made before thawing and that they are budding, planting must be done after the risks of frost is past. For indoor preservation, roses must be placed in a sunny location.
  • Plant roses in a sunny location and protected from winds. Good aeration is essential to reduce the consequence of some diseases to the foliage;
  • Plant grafted roses by burying the graft 2,5 cm below soil level. This allows roses to make roots above the graft, which makes them less vulnerable to frost;
  • Avoid disturbing the roots of roses (or other shrubs) sold in bags or cardboard boxes because new roots have begun to develop. Often, these roses are already budding; in that case, it is preferable to plant in overcast conditions and lightly prune the extremities of young stems especially if they are wilted.

Planting climbing plants

In general, climbing plants require lightly moist and a well-drained soil. Avoid heavy soils for clematis. Most climbers develop properly in sunny locations and protected from winds.

Planting and soil preparation is the same as shrubs. Most climbers require a trellis to hold on to. Virginia creepers and climbing hydrangeas are an exception because of their aerial roots which allows them to grip directly on to walls. However, it is advantageous to attach the stems with tape to the wall or they may grow at the soil surface for some times. Other species must be attached to the trellis at the beginning of their growth. Once they are able to attach themselves to the trellis, no more intervention is necessary.

Planting clematis

The golden rule for clematis is: feet in the shade and head in the sun. Clematis requires full sun to grow vigorously and to flower abundantly. However, roots prefer a moist and cool soil. Therefore, it is recommended to provide shade by adding mulch, planting a perennial or a small shrub at the base of the plant. Clematis grows well in a soil rich in organic matters.

Clematis must be quickly staked and attached to a trellis in order not to break the stems when planting.

The planting technique is the same as other plants except that the root ball must be inclined to direct stems towards the trellis. It is also preferable to bury one or two buds below soil level. This planting technique avoids the death of plants if they are affected by the clematis wilt.

General maintenance after planting

  • Avoid letting the grass or weeds to grow at the base of plants;
  • Eliminate suckers at the base of trees;
  • Check stakes and collars to prevent injuries to branches or the trunk.

Watering
  • In the first growing season, water generously once a week. Ideally, water should penetrate at least 30 cm deep. However, beware of excess water out of the heat wave period. Superficial watering encourages plants to develop roots at the surface making them more fragile. When needed, water gradually to avoid surface run-off;
  • It is better to water in the morning to allow the foliage to dry quicker. Wet foliage and cool temperatures promote the development of diseases.

Fertilization

The type of fertilizer required by non-flowering trees, shrubs, climbing plants and evergreens may have a formulation in which proportions are similar to 5-2-2. As for flowering plants, use fertilizers containing less nitrogen as 3-3-5.
  • Fertilize in spring before growing starts. The recommended dose of application is generally based on the size of the plant and the type of formulation. The dose is specified by the manufacturers;
  • Give preference to granular organic fertilizers instead of soluble fertilizers;
  • Preferably, apply in the soil at the perimeter of branches for better absorption by the roots;
  • Fertilize big calibre plants by making holes between 13 to 30 cm deep to incorporate the granular fertilizer;
  • For smaller shrubs, evergreens or trees, space holes at 30 cm and for bigger plants, space at 60 cm;
  • Water and fill the holes with earth.

In most cases, it is not necessary to fertilize woody plants during the season. Never fertilize these plants after mid-July to promote the hardening off of plants before winter. If plant growth is very strong and if there is a severe pruning, it is not necessary to fertilize them every year.
Before using an amendment, a pesticide or a fertilizer always read and comply with the product label. Pay special attention to instructions, precautions to be taken before, during and after using the product and storage conditions.
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