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Patching a hole in a drywall board
Each type of hole, depending on its size and the condition of the surrounding wall surface, requires its own type of solution.
Holes left behind by thumbtacks or wall hooks, by a hammer strike that missed its mark or the corner of a desk that slipped during the moving process, can all be easily repaired at nominal cost and without leaving the slightest hint that they ever existed.
To hide the holes left by finishing nails in baseboards and mouldings as well as in drywall boards, use spackling compound or wood filler, which is applied using the thumb. Wood filler is generally weather resistant, does not contract, is available in an assortment of colours (depending on the brand), may be sanded and painted and is quickly and easily applied, which can prove quite practical when there are many little holes to patch. Putty sticks, also offered in a variety of colours, are the right choice for patching small holes in woodwork by simply rubbing the stick back and forth over the hole. In the case of holes and cracks that continuously reappear (due to the working of materials), it is recommended that you use a flexible filler.
2. Patching Holes up to 1 cm (3/8 in.)
Holes less than 1 cm (3/8 in.) are often left behind by plastic wall anchors (plastic inserts anchored into drywall boards to ensure that screws and hooks hold securely).
2.1
Lightly sand the area around the hole (approximately the size of a 5¢ coin) to improve spackling compound adhesion, and wipe the surface down with a damp cloth to remove any dust.
2.2
Fill the hole with enough spackling compound or wood filler so that the product overflows slightly from the hole. Spread the excess over the previously sanded area while leaving enough compound to form a small bulge. Let dry.
2.3
Sand the filled area (the bulge) until it is smooth and blends with the original surface.
3. Patching Holes up to 5 cm (2 in.) in Diameter (Approximately)
3.1
Clean Hole If the hole is clean (without cracks in the drywall surrounding the hole), like the kind caused by an accidental hammer strike for example, the repair method is practically the same as the previous one.
Lightly sand an area of about 2.5 cm (1 in.) around the hole.
Fill the hole with spackling compound until it overflows slightly and spread some of the compound on the sanded surface as well. Let dry.
Once dry, sand the surface until it is smooth and wipe away any dust using a damp cloth.
It may be necessary to reapply spackling compound and sand the area once more to ensure that the repair job is as thorough and invisible as possible.
3.2
Hole with Cracked Edges If the surface surrounding the hole is cracked or pieces of the wallboard appear to be loose (broken but held in place by the wallboard paper), you will have to use a peel-and-stick repair patch to cover the damaged area.
Lightly sand the surface 30 to 60 cm (1 to 2 ft.) around the hole and wipe away the dust.
Cut out a piece of the peel-and-stick patch, of the appropriate size and shape to cover the hole, and stick it to the wall over the hole.
Using a taping knife, cover the entire patch with spackling compound, as well as the previously sanded surface surrounding the hole. Spread the spackling compound thinner and thinner as you move away from the hole. Let dry.
Sand the surface, wipe it with a damp cloth, and repeat the process as many times as necessary to ensure that the repaired area blends seamlessly with the original surface.
4. Patching Holes between 5 and 10 cm (2 to 4 in.) in Diameter
If the hole is too big to be patched with spackling compound alone, it is possible to produce a patch using a piece of drywall board.
4.1
Using a carpenter’s pencil and framing square, trace the outline of a rectangle around the hole.
4.2
Cut along the outline with a drywall knife or saw and remove the damaged piece.
4.3
Measure the dimensions of the hole left behind and, from an undamaged piece of drywall, cut out a piece that is slightly larger than the new hole (i.e. a rectangular piece that is 2.5 cm (1 in.) wider and taller than the opening in the wall).
4.4
On the reverse side of the piece that you just cut out, trace a rectangle with the exact same dimensions as the hole in the wall. This outline must be centered in the piece of drywall.
4.5
Using a drywall knife, cut along the outline without cutting into the paper on the other side.
4.6
Remove the excess drywall around the rectangle without tearing the paper backing. You should be left with a piece of drywall whose paper backing extends by 1.25 cm (1/2 in.) over each side.
4.7
Insert this piece into the hole so that the paper is supported by the wall. Trace the outline of the paper using the pencil and remove the piece. You will be left with a rectangular outline around the hole in the wall.
4.8
Using the drywall knife and the framing square, score the wall surface along the lines that you just traced and remove the paper from around the hole (Warning: be sure to remove just the paper). Lightly sand the area to ensure that there are no bumps and wipe the surface. Then, apply a small amount of spackling compound (very little) around the hole where the paper has now been removed.
4.9
Lightly sand the surface of the drywall patch and reinsert the piece into the hole. The paper backing should fit perfectly in the depression and produce a flush fit with the surface of the wall. Press down lightly on the paper surrounding the hole so that it sticks to the spackling compound.
4.10
Lightly sand an area of approximately 30 cm (1 ft.) around the hole and wipe off the dust.
4.11
Use the taping knife to spread spackling compound over the drywall patch and the sanded surface around the hole. Use less and less compound as you move farther away from the hole. Let dry, sand, wipe with a damp cloth and repeat the process as many times as necessary to ensure that the repaired area blends with the original surface. Warning: Because the patch fits flush with the surface of the wall, very little spackling compound is required.
5. Patching Large Holes
The process used here is a large-scale variation of the previous solution; remove the damaged area and replace it with a new piece of drywall.
5.1
Using an electronic stud detector, locate the studs or joists behind the drywall (if they’re not already visible through the hole) and take note of their location. Use a small flashlight to verify whether there are electrical cables or plumbing pipes in the vicinity of the hole. There are stud detectors on the market that allow you to locate electrical wires and pipes as well.
5.2
Trace the outline of a rectangle around the hole using the framing square.
5.3
After ensuring that there are no studs, electrical cables or pipes in the area around the hole, use a drywall knife or saw (you may also use a jigsaw or reciprocating saw) to cut out the drywall section outlined by the rectangle you just traced, and remove the damaged section.
5.4
Get some 5 cm (2 in.) wide x 2 cm (3/4 in.) thick wood laths and cut two lengths equal to the height of the hole, plus 7.5 cm (3 in). Ex: If the rectangular section of drywall you removed measures 30 cm (12 in.) in height, cut the laths in lengths of 37.5 cm (15 in.).
5.5
Place the laths behind the wall and apply enough pressure to hold them in place against the back of the drywall. Use 3 cm (1 ¼ in.) drywall screws and the screwdriver drill to fasten the laths in place.
5.6
Measure the four sides of the hole and trace the outline of a rectangle of the same dimensions on a piece of undamaged drywall board using the framing square.
5.7
Insert the section of drywall into the hole, apply pressure on it and fasten it onto the wood laths.
5.8
Lightly sand an area of approximately 30 to 60 cm (1 to 2 ft.) around the hole, as well as the surface of the section you just installed, and wipe off any dust.
5.9
Apply adhesive-backed fibreglass wallboard tape over the joints.
5.10
Using the taping knife, cover the tape, the previously sanded area surrounding the hole and the newly installed section with spackling compound. Use less and less compound as you move farther away from the hole. Let dry.
5.11
Sand, wipe off with a damp cloth and repeat the process as many times as necessary to ensure that the repaired section blends with the original surface.
6. Paint the Surface
Once the repair job is done, it’s time to paint over the repaired section; it is recommended that the entire wall be painted to better conceal the repair. Apply a coat of primer over the spackling compound before painting the surface. The primer will block compound pores, limit paint absorption and improve paint adhesion.
If an incident causes visible damage to a wall in your living environment, and after the initial shock has worn off, it’s time to roll up your sleeves, follow the above instructions and apply the appropriate repairs to your wall. The results can be quite rewarding. Of course, that’s no reason to go around making holes in your drywall on purpose!