Laying ceramic wall tiles

Ceramic tiles are a wall covering that offers several advantages. Small, large, speckled, with lozenges, blue, slate-grey, square or rectangular, they look great in the kitchen or bathroom. In terms of maintenance, they’re easy to clean. In terms of decoration, they suit all layouts, styles and fantasies. Grab your tiling tools! At low cost and taking the following steps, you’ll transform your walls with ease and make them beautiful, practical and unique for a long time!

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Tile selection

There’s an infinity of colours and patterns, as well as several tile sizes. So it’s difficult to set a precise rule, but generally you should choose tiles that best personalize your walls, by combining colours, borders and insertions. But beware of impulses or fads: keep in mind that wall tiles are there to stay...

As for size, people traditionally opt for 4 in. × 4 in. or 6 in. × 6 in. Nowadays however, professional decorators also consider 12 × 12 in., and even 16 × 16 in. tiles. In addition to creating a different effect, large tiles are easier to install. Note that the size of the room, surface or shower stall to be covered will influence the choice of tile size.

Today, several manufacturers offer a variety of sizes for a colour or pattern. Don’t hesitate to ask for advice from an in-store specialist to help you make good choices.

Preparation

What are your walls made of? If you want to tile a bathroom wall, it’s preferable that it be very firm and moisture stable. That will reduce the risk of joint adhesion failure. Ideally, the wall should be covered with moisture-resistant gypsum boards before receiving ceramic tiles. For the kitchen, a regular gypsum board wall will be perfectly suitable and will be easier to tile if it’s clean, dry and straight.

To tile a painted surface, sand it lightly.

If you lay your tiles on old ceramic, brush the surface with a degreaser or a 50 ml solution of hydrochloric acid in a litre of water. Rinse and allow to dry. Over old tiles, remember to use a latex-based rather than a regular adhesive.

1. Determine the layout

If your wall tile project is simple enough, it’s not absolutely necessary that you draw a plan for your tile layout. However, if your project includes patterns and borders to be positioned, or if your walls are not perfectly straight, it is preferable to draw a plan to arrange your tiles well.

1.1 

Measure your wall and write down your measurements to scale on graph paper, taking into account important components such as windows and doors, bathtub, mirrors, cupboards and other permanent accessories.

1.2 

Observe the sizes of your tiles, and draw various layouts on your plan while studying how the decorative patterns will repeat. The purpose of the exercise is to create a symmetrical and harmonious layout that will please you.

2. Trace reference lines

This step is essential. Determine the centre of the wall above and trace your vertical reference line with a chalk line. Then draw a horizontal line to mark the tiles’ first row. These two perpendicular lines will guide the laying of tiles.

3. Apply the adhesive

Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel on a small wall section, on one side of the vertical line. Advance by three or four linear feet simultaneously. Trace grooves in the adhesive with the trowel’s toothed side. The grooves should all be traced in the same direction.

To lay large tiles, use quick-setting cement. Note that this paste dries very quickly and requires that tiles be laid right away.

For 4 in. × 4 in., 4 in. × 6 in. and 6 in. × 6 in. tiles, use a 3/16 in. trowel to apply the adhesive. For all tiles equal or taller than 8 in. × 8 in., choose a ¼ in. trowel.

4. Lay the first tile

Lay the first tile near the centre of the wall; move it slightly with a twisting movement to embed it well in the adhesive. Rely on the reference lines to lay it correctly.

5. Lay the other tiles

5.1 

Continue laying tiles from the centre toward the sides and in step-like arrangement. To ensure that all the tiles are aligned, keep an eye on the reference lines and use plastic spacers to make the grout joints uniform. The spacers should stay in place while the adhesive sets. That way, the tiles won’t move. Don’t push them in too deeply.

Continue section by section until the entire surface is covered. Along the way, integrate the borders, if your layout plan has any. If necessary, as is likely, cut to the correct size the tiles nearest to the wall.

Don’t forget to remove the spacers before applying grout.

5.2 

You’re worried that your tiling won’t be flat and uniform? Rely on your level. You can also use a short 2 in. × 4 in. wood stud wrapped in carpeting and, once a section is completed, lightly tap the tiles with a rubber mallet. This will help the adhesive bond.

6. Cut the perimeter tiles

Cut and lay the wall perimeter tiles. Begin with the first-row tiles. To trace straight lines, superimpose an entire tile directly on the last tile laid. Then place a “reference tile” on top and lean it against a “spacer” piece (a tile placed vertically along the wall is fine).

6.1 

Trace a line across the centre tile, following the reference tile.

6.2 

Place the tile to be cut into the tile cutter and hold it firmly against the stop while you score the line. Be sure to score the line only once.

6.3 

Cut the tile by lowering the lever.

6.4 

Set the cut tiles into the adhesive the same way you did with the full tiles.

For complex cuts, you can use a tile saw or tile nippers.

7. Apply the grout

The grouting phase can begin 24 hours after the last tiles have been installed, once the mortar is dry and the moisture has disappeared. Since the tile joints are the most difficult parts to maintain, choose grey or coloured grout to reduce maintenance.

7.1 

Wet the tiles with clean water before grouting. With water, the grout mixture will spread better and bind less readily to the tile surfaces, making cleaning much easier. The grout waterproofs the wall and embellishes the tiling.

When mixing the grout to the manufacturer’s recommendations, make sure that its colour is uniform and that it has the consistency of toothpaste.

7.2 

After mixing the grout, pour part of it directly over the tiles and use a rubber float to make it penetrate into the joints. Apply the grout in sections of 1 sq. m (10 sq. ft.) at a time.

Do not apply grout in joints separating the tiles from another material, a bath, a floor or room corners. Those joints must act as expansion joints. You will seal them later.

7.3 

Grout mixture dries very quickly, so the ideal situation is to have one person trowelling in the grout and a second person, a few minutes later, wiping off the excess in the direction in which it was installed.

Wipe excess grout off the tile faces with the grout float. Then, to clean, take a damp sponge and wipe diagonally over the tiles. Rinse the sponge often. Use as little water as possible in order not to dilute the grout between the tiles or leave too thick a milky film.

7.4 

After 24 hours, when the grout is completely dry, apply a grout sealer on the joints while avoiding the tiles. Apply two coats 30 min. apart.

As an alternative, you can also use epoxy grout, known to be stain-resistant, anti-mildew and easy to clean. However, this type of grout is more difficult to apply as it sets very quickly.

8. Seal the joints

After about ten days, seal the expansion joints with a silicone sealer.

When the silicone is dry, clean the tiles with a smooth dry cloth.
Don’t just dream about new wall tiles. Make it happen. You’ll feel like you’re giving your wall a second life!
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