Ventilating a room is certainly not a luxury. A quality bathroom ventilator will rid the room of stale air, control humidity and ensure a supply of fresh air.
There are two types of ventilators on the market: propeller and turbine.
Propeller models are less expensive and less efficient than their turbine counterparts. In addition, their propeller's whirr tends to make them noisier than turbine models.
Turbine ventilators, also known as centrifugal ventilators or squirrel cage ventilators, are certainly more expensive. But we strongly recommend them because they perform better and are quieter.
A bathroom ventilation system is made up of two main components: the ventilator itself and the exhaust vent. Both play an important role.
Ventilator power
When the time comes for you to choose a bathroom ventilator, you'll need to know how much power you'll require. To know that, follow this simple rule: one cubic foot per minute for each square foot of area. We also suggest you give yourself a 20% margin and one cubic foot per minute for each linear foot of rigid ducts (two cubic feet per minute for flexible ducts).
For example, a bathroom measuring 10 x 10 ft., ventilated through flexible ducts measuring 6 ft. (1.8 m) will require a ventilator capable of generating 100 cubic-foot per minute of ventilation volume (10 x 10), plus 20 cubic ft. per minute (20% of 100), plus 12 cubic foot per minute (length of duct x 2), or approximately 132 cubic feet per minute of ventilation volume.
A smaller bathroom will need a ventilator capable of generating ventilation volume in the range of 50 cubic feet per minute. But, if your bathroom is equipped with a whirlpool bath, you'll need a ventilator that can generate at least 250 cubic feet per minute of ventilation volume because the movement of hot water from the tub generates a lot of humidity.
Ducts and noise levels
The shorter the ducts, the better the air circulation, the lesser the requirement for power. We recommend ducts that are at least 4 in. in diameter (100 mm). Longer ducts should be 6 in. in diameter (150 mm) which will make air circulation easier. Smaller ducts - 3 in. in diameter (75 mm) - are not recommended.
Ventilation ducts may be either flexible or rigid. We recommend flexible ducts for distances of less than 16 ft. (4.9 m). They get around a variety of obstacles and adapt to a variety of shapes very well. Rigid ducts don't adapt quite as easily. On the other hand, their smooth surface facilitates air circulation which is why we recommend them over longer distances.
The last element to consider in choosing a bathroom ventilator is noise levels. Often expressed in sones, noise levels range between 1 and 7. The higher the figure, the louder the noise. A ventilator with a sone rating of 2 or less is considered silent.
1. Determine the location
In most cases, bathroom ventilators should be installed on the ceiling, in the middle of the room. They must be located at least 18 in. away from the shower or bathtub.
Determine the exact location where you want to install the ventilator, bearing in mind that the housing must be solidly attached to an ceiling joists.
2. Drill a hole in the ceiling
Drill a hole in the ceiling at the location where you wish to install the ventilator. If you can't drill through, it's because a wood is obstructing the drill's passage. Keep trying, moving a few inches each time, until you succeed. The holes you will have made will disappear when you have cut out the opening you'll need for the housing.
3. Cut a hole in the attic
When you have drilled the hole, get into the attic to remove insulation materials and use a keyhole saw to cut a hole through the ceiling in the dimensions of the ventilator housing.
4. Attach the duct
From the attic, remove the insulation over 12 in. (305 mm) of the flexible duct, attach the duct to the ventilator and secure it using a collar.