Before doing work involving electrical wiring, always cut off the power using the lever of the junction box in the electrical panel. In Quebec, any connection from or inside this panel must be made by a certified general electrician, member of the CMEQ Corporation des mâitres électriciens du Québec (Corporation of Master Electricians of Quebec). The work must then be verified and approved by an. Information on the connection of a water heater to the electrical box is provided to you solely to help you follow and better understand your electrician's work.
You can complete other steps of the installation yourself, including the electrical connection, if the wiring is already installed. However, if you have any doubts whatsoever about your ability to do this work properly, we recommend that you call upon the services of a qualified electrician and/or plumber.
There are two types of electric water heaters: heaters that have the water entry on the top and those that have it on the bottom. Consequently, different steps will describe the method required for each type where there are differences in the installation procedure. Obviously, if you are replacing a water heater make sure that you buy the same model as the one you are replacing, so that you can use existing plumbing.
The following instructions are for the initial installation of an electric water heater in a home. They are designed to help anyone who wishes to install the heater themselves. If you are replacing a water heater, this guide will allow you to verify the integrity of the equipment already installed.
Solder must seal each pipe connection, except in the case of threaded connectors, the latter being sealed by Teflon tape applied to the "male" connector. When installing a water heater, it is forbidden to use an open flame to solder connectors to the tank, or close to the tank. In fact, the heat will damage or even destroy the plastic covering inside the connectors. This will cause premature leaking in the various componants, which will not be covered by the guarantee. To avoid this, when mentioned in this guide, solder certain pieces together before installing them on the water heater.
1. Preparation
Make sure that you close the valve of the water main for your property (usually located in the basement). Once it has been closed, do a spot check by opening a water tap (kitchen, bathroom, etc.).
After, if you are replacing a water heater, disconnect the electrical wiring and drain the tank of the water heater, then disconnect the various pipes. Have buckets ready to catch any water that may escape from the pipes you are disconnecting.
A water heater is heavy, large and relatively difficult to manoeuvre: if possible, ask for someone's help to move it, and above all be careful of your back!
2. Location
Choosing the location to install the water heater: it must be as close as possible to the electrical panel and to the main area where hot water will be used. This location must be sheltered from frost and, as much as possible, close to the floor drain. In the case where the latter will not be adjacent, install a drain pan which is 4" (10 cm) more in diameter than that of the tank and at least 1 in. (25 mm) deep. To avoid any damage to your property, this pan must be connected to the pan by a flexible hose (garden hose)
Also, if the water heater is installed on a rug, stabilize it by using wood or metal shims slid under it. You must provide sufficient free space to facilitate access for eventual maintenance or repairs, without forgetting that some day you will have to replace it. This means that you should leave enough free space so that you can move and manoeuvre the water heater.
3. Install the cold water supply
Find a cold water pipe close to the the location of your water tank, cut it and install a "T" connector. (The length of the piece of pipe removed must be smaller than that of the "T" connector.) At the free extremity of this connector, install a ½ in. (13 mm) pipe whose length depends on your needs: in fact, at the end of this pipe, you will install a stop valve to have the possibility of cutting off the water flow in case of an emergency; the place where you want to install this valve will determine the length of pipe needed between the latter and the "T" connector.
3.1
For a water heater with water entry at the bottom, join a ½ in. (13 mm) "T" connector and a ½ in. x ½ in. female threaded connector (FIP) by using a piece of approximately 3 in. (8 cm) pipe and screw the anti-syphon valve into the ½ x ½ in. FIP. (Remember: do not forget to apply the Teflon tape.) Then, insert a pipe (approximately the length of the water heater) into an extremity of the "T" connector.
3.1.1
Solder a length of 2 in (5 cm) pipe into the non-threaded end of the ¾ in. (19 mm) 90° x ½ in. (13 mm) FIP elbow. Then, screw the elbow to the base of the water heater.
3.1.2
Using a ½ in. (13 mm) connector, connet the above-mentioned elbow (point B) and the long length of pipe of the assembly prepared in point A. You can solder without worry: the small length of 2 in. pipe you installed on the elbow was just for this and is just far away enough to avoid damaging the connectors on the water heater.
3.1.3
Finally, using a ½ in. pipe connect the free extremity of the "T" connector to the stop valve installed.
3.2
For a water heater with water entry at the top, to avoid soldering too close to the tank: solder a length of approximately 2 in. (5 cm) pipe into the extremity of the non-threaded ¾ in. (19 mm) x ½ in. (13 mm) FIP 90° elbow.
3.2.1
Then, screw the elbow into the threaded nipple, identified at the cold water inlet, located on the top of the tank.
3.2.2
To save time, repeat the same procedure with the other elbow, but screw it into the threaded nipple identified at the hot water outlet.
3.2.3
Finally, using a ½ in. pipe, connect the elbow of the cold water inlet to the stop valve installed. A ½ in. connector will be needed to connect this pipe to the small length of pipe which you soldered to the elbow.