Closing the Pool

The methods used to close your pool in the fall will play a determining role in the condition of your water come springtime. The later you close your pool, the better your chances of finding easily treatable water conditions upon reopening, especially if you open your pool early.

Preserving water conditions is not the only reason for closing your pool properly, the process also allows you to ensure that the pool equipment makes it through the winter unscathed.
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End of the Swimming Season
D-Day
Complete a Final Backwash of the System
Lower the Water Level
Disconnect and Store
Treating the Water
Protecting the Pool
Additional Instructions
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End of the Swimming Season

When the swimming season comes to a close, disconnect the water heater (close the circuit breaker as well) but leave the pump on and continue with the regular maintenance of your pool, including adjustments to the chemical balance, until the definitive closing day. While waiting for this day to arrive, and just before the leaves begin to fall, vacuum the pool thoroughly and install a net. To prevent the net from coming into contact with the water, place an “air cushion” (specifically designed for this purpose) in the centre of the pool.

D-Day

The time to close the pool for good will have arrived when the water temperature dips close to 10ºC (50ºF); this typically happens around mid-October or in early November. If you close your pool before the water reaches this temperature, you increase the risk of losing your water conditions. If, on the other hand, you wait too long, you increase the risk of ice forming on the water surface, in the plumbing or in the equipment, which can cause damages and make the closing process more difficult.

Before undertaking the closing process per se, remove the net and air cushion that you installed before the leaves began to fall.

Then, visually inspect the pool in order to monitor potential leaks, tears and/or structural defects. The weight of ice and snow accumulations can generate significant stress on the pool. For this reason, it is important that all equipment be in good condition in order to prevent additional damage or even sagging. If parts are broken or appear worn, replace them immediately to avoid problems in the future. As an added bonus, you’ll be thankful when your pool is in prime condition come the spring.

This checklist is based on the premise that the pool was properly maintained leading up to D-Day and that the water is still perfectly clear. If this is not the case, follow the instructions in the Pool Maintenance Guide to re-establish water quality prior to closing. Failure to do this will generate additional difficulties during the opening process in the spring.

Complete a Final Backwash of the System

A five-minute backwash of the system is required to clean the sand in the filter. Before starting this procedure, remove all debris from the water using the skimmer, try to limit turbulence as much as possible. Do not try to remove the debris sitting on the pool floor, these accumulations will be removed later using the vacuum.
  • Hook up the waste hose to the filter and uncoil it all the way to the street or drainage area.
  • Fasten the adjustable collar to hold the hose firmly in place.
  • Stop the pump.
  • Set the filter lever to the “backwash” position (by turning it clockwise) and run the pump for three seconds to “prep” the waste hose and prevent it from being damaged by the pressure.
  • Run the pump once again, this time for around five minutes, and stop it after this time has elapsed.
  • Set the filter lever to the “whirlpool” position and run the pump for approximately one minute. Stop the pump after this time has elapsed.
  • Turn the filter lever to the “rinse” position and run the pump for thirty seconds. Stop the pump after this time has elapsed.
  • Set the filter lever to the “filter” position but do not start the pump.

Lower the Water Level

    Important information regarding the discharge of pool water, hot tubs and spas
    Water from pools, hot tubs and spas is filled with chemicals such as chlorine/bromine, salt, copper-based algaecides and more. These chemicals are harmful to the fish and organisms that live in water systems.

    Depending on local municipalities, owners of pools, hot tubs and spas might need to lower chlorine/bromine levels prior to releasing water into the storm sewer system. Since these chemicals dissipate on their own, leaving the pool uncovered for two weeks is usually enough time to reduce the levels. A neutralizer can also be used to reduce the levels of chlorine/bromine to an acceptable level.

    The water from salt water pools has high levels of chlorides might need to discharge into the sanitary as it cannot be discharge into the storm sewer system in some places.

    Check with local municipalities to find out what types of bylaws are in effect when closing pools, spas and hot tubs.


Lower the water level by vacuuming the pool once more. Follow the instructions below, which differ slightly from those used during regular pool maintenance (note that these instructions are for vacuums that operate with the skimmer):
  • Assemble the various parts of the vacuum in order to prepare the device for use (connect the telescopic handle to the cleaning head, which is connected to the hose, which is then connected to the vacuum plate).
  • If your pool is equipped with a bottom drain, turn the three-way valve handle so that it points downwards to ensure maximum suction on the skimmer.
  • Remove the skimmer basket.
  • Set the filter lever to the “waste” or “drain” position and restart the pump; the pool will start emptying. For cartridge type filters, remove the cartridge and open the valve located between the filter and the pump (Warning: In both cases, make sure that the waste hose is properly connected and that it makes it all the way to the street, as described above). Go immediately to the next step.
  • Slide the vacuum head into the pool and fill the vacuum hose with water by placing the vacuum plate in front of the return jet. Once the hose is full, drag it over to the skimmer, with the vacuum plate fully submerged, and insert it into the skimmer (make sure that the basket was removed).

      If the water is too cold for you to carry out this procedure, fill a kitchen glove with warm water (as warm as you can handle) and stick your hand inside the glove; this will help keep your hand warm while you fill the hose and move it around underwater.

      If your vacuum connects directly into a dedicated socket (and not into the skimmer), follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
  • Slowly vacuum the pool; debris will be pumped directly to the street. Monitor the water level: if the level reaches the point where might fall below the skimmer, run a trickle of water from your garden hose just above the skimmer to maintain adequate suction. This will not have an impact on the time required to empty the pool; the trickle of water is negligible when compared to the flow rate of the pump.
  • When you have finished vacuuming the pool, leave the pump running until the water level drops to approximately 45 cm (18 in.) below the skimmer (above ground pool); 10 cm (4 in.) below the return jets (vinyl in-ground pool); or 2.5 cm (1 in.) above the last stair from the bottom (concrete in-ground pool). Once the appropriate water level has been reached, remove the garden hose from on top of the skimmer, remove the vacuum plate and leave the system pumping air for 30 seconds (this will empty most of the water from the hoses). Stop the pump once this is done.
    Another alternative (if your pool is equipped with a bottom drain): after you have finished vacuuming, you can stop the pump, set the three-way valve handle so that it points towards the top (to engage the bottom drain only) and restart the pump until the water reaches the appropriate level.

    While the pool is emptying, clean the ring-marks around the pool using a phosphate-free degreaser and a floor brush or rag, clean the rim around the pool deck as well. Rinse.
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