Building a pergola

Aside from being a decorative element in itself, the pergola allows you to suspend flower pots and provides support for climbing plants. It also provides you with shade and privacy that add comfort to your garden. We recommend you anchor your pergola onto concrete piers.

The following building steps are based on the attached plan which you can print. You can also print the list of required materials for this particular plan. For viewing and printing, you will need to use Acrobat Reader software.

Difficulty level :
Tools list
Material list
Plan Pergola (pdf 170 K)
Plant selector
Project guide service
Soil calculator
Seed calculator
Related Projects
Related Tips

Page 1/1

1. Prepare the rafters and headers

On a piece of cardboard, draw the shape you want for the ends of the rafters and headers. Apply the design you choose to both ends of the headers and to one end only of the rafters, as illustrated. Be systematic and symmetric in applying your design. Use a jigsaw to cut the boards.

Rafters: after carefully measuring the distance between the end (house side) and the first 2 in. × 8 in. of the header, trace the shape of the two notches that will be recessed in the header. The notches must be 1½ in. wide and 3 in. deep and be separated by a space equivalent to the width of the column or post (a 4-in. post is, in fact, 3½ in. × 3½ in.).

You can replace both these notches by a wider one that would be the width of the two 2 in. × 8 in. and the post i.e.: 6½ in.

Use a jigsaw to cut the notches.

2. Install the post brackets

Install the six metal bearing brackets to the patio or deck floor. The 4 in. × 4 in. posts will then be installed in these brackets.

3. Attach the joist to the house

Attach the pre-cut end joist to the house. For siding, i.e. aluminum, vinyl or wood, use lag screws; for masonry, use masonry anchors. For siding, you'll need to consult the house plan to locate the various elements of the structure. For example, studs are generally 16 in. apart (centre to centre) on either side of a door.

4. Attach the joist hangers

Attach the metal joist hanger, to the end joist. The rafters will eventually be installed in these hangers. Provide spaces of 14 in., centre to centre, measured from the centre of the end joist, between rafters. You're likely to find that the spaces at both ends will be narrower than 14 in.

5. Attach the header to the posts

You'll find it easier to attach the lintel to the posts if you do it on the ground, before erecting the structure and attaching the posts to the floor of the terrace.

5.1 

Construct the header, that will support the rafters, out of two pieces of 2 in. × 8 in. lumber. whose ends you will have cut in keeping with your design, installed on either side of the posts, at the end that is farthest away from the house. Start by marking the locations of the lintels on both posts, making sure both posts are exactly the same length. Use an electric drill to make holes through the lintels where indicated, and attach the lintels to the posts using lag screws and a ratchet.

6. Attache the lintel structure and posts

Attach the lintel structure and four posts to their brackets. Attach the post nearer to the house to the double plate located at the top of the interior wall (usually 8 ft. from the floor).

7. Lay and screw the rafters

Lay the rafters on the structure, fitting the notched ends over both lintel boards and dropping the other ends into the brackets attached to the end joist. Screw the rafters into the lintel boards at a 45° to strengthen the structure.

8. Fasten the outside rafters

Use lag screws to attach the outside rafters to the post.
There you have it!

All you need to do now is to enjoy your new garden!
Page 1/1