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Building a garage is similar to building a shed. By hiring contractors to do the excavation and foundation work, a handy do-it-yourselfer can carry out such a large project that will undoubtedly add value to your property. The following steps are applicable for the construction of a 16 feet × 22 feet garage. Get your own free plan for this garage (Model AG-10A) as well as the list of materials required for the project. For viewing and printing, you will need to use Acrobat Reader software.
Ontarian residential construction regulations require that anyone in this province who wish to construct a building of 10 square metres or more, separate or attached to an existing building, obtain a BCIN accreditation (Building Code Identification Number) for their plan for an extra charge. Contact a Planimage representative as quickly as possible to obtain additional information on this subject either by phone: 450-641-7526 or email: info@planimage.com. |
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1. Build the foundation and floor | |
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1.1 | |
Carefully mark the location of the garage on your lot. Hire a surveyor to precisely locate the site for the garage and define the excavation area. |
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1.2 | |
Have a contractor excavate the designated site to the required depth. He will properly dispose of the dirt excavated. |
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1.3 | |
In order to build the foundation, we recommend you contract out this job. The foundation specialist will start with the footing, the concrete walls and backfilling before making the foundation slab. Make sure that anchor bolts are encased, centered every 4 feet (1.2 m). |
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2.1 |
Outside walls
Start the outside walls building them flat on the ground, using lumber with less than 19% moisture content. Wall studs should be centered every 16 in. (406 mm) and made of 2 × 4 in. (50 × 100 mm) timber. Strengthen the base of the walls with a 4 in. (100 mm) bottom plate in which you will drill holes every 4 ft. (1.2 m) for the anchor bolts. |
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2.1.1 | |
Separate the top and bottom plate slightly more than a stud's length apart with the bottom plate positioned nearest the wall's final location. Center the studs every 16 in. (406 mm). Attach pre-nailed double 2 × 4 in. (50 × 100 mm) top plates above the studs. |
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2.1.2 | |
A secondary stud made of two planks solidly nailed together will delineate the sides of the door or window opening and support the coping. |
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2.1.3 | |
The lintel (window contour) load will be transmitted to the twin studs on each side of the opening. To install a lintel, nail a 2 × 10 in. (50 × 254 mm) each wall face. Fill the empty space between them with insulation material. |
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2.2 |
The garage door framing
Build the two short sections on either side of the large opening using three 2 × 6 in. (50 × 152 mm) studs nailed together. The top part of the frame (called lintel or header), is made up of three 2 × 10 in. (50 × 254 mm) nailed together then nailed to the trimmer studs of the two side sections. |
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2.3 | |
Sheathing and air barrier |
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2.3.1 | |
The suggested sheathing material is 4 × 8 ft (1.2 × 2.4 m) tarred fiberboard panels. Use a thin plastic air barrier. |
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2.3.2 | |
First, apply the sheathing, positioning the panels on the wall (that is still flat on the ground) and nail to frame with dog nails. Apply the air barrier and nail or staple into place. Lastly, install fillers every 16 in. (406 mm). |
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2.4 | |
Before lifting the wall into place, make sure the bottom plate is well positioned. At this stage, make sure you have enough people to lift and hold the wall in position while bracing. Nail braces from the top of the wall into stakes driven into the ground outside the wall and nail the wall upright to hold it temporarily. |
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