Build a wall-mounted console table

This console table measures 32" wide, 12" deep and 29" high.

Though shaping the curved edges requires a certain amount of skill and the use of specialized tools, this table is easy to assemble.

The plan includes instructions for a two-legged console fastened to the wall as well as a freestanding model with four legs.

Level 2, due to the saw and router work. Less than 5 hours.

To download the PDF plan of this project, you will need Acrobat Reader.

Paint calculator

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Routers
The router is a motorized tool that can be equipped with a wide variety of cutters, or bits, making it extremely versatile. Router bits exist for a panoply of woodworking projects, including making mouldings or casings, carving grooves (e.g. for inserting drawer bottoms or cabinet door panels), professionally finishing the edges of pieces of stock (boards, shelves, tables), planing surfaces and even making dovetail joints. Router bits are often sold in sets, usually with illustrations of the shapes or patterns that they can cut.

Depending on the model of router and type of work involved, the user can either move the router along the fixed material (e.g. to follow curves) or move the material itself along a fixed router table (e.g. to carve grooves). A number of routers are designed to be used either way and can be fastened upside down under a router table.

List of tools

Driver drill
Scroll saw or jigsaw
Pneumatic nailer
Router
Drawing compass
Multi-blade screwdriver
Mitre saw
Countersink drill bit for no. 6 screws
Carbide drill bit for no. 6 screws (0.138", i.e. approx. 1/8")
Pencil
Measuring tape

List of materials

(Material for two-legged, wall-mounted console)

1 laminated pine panel, 12" x 48"
1 pine board, ¾" x 6" x 96"
1 pine strip, ¾" x ¾" x 72"
2 “Queen Anne” ash table legs
7 metal squares, 1 7/8"
½" No. 6 screws
1 ¼" No. 6 screws
2 ¾" No. 6 screws (for wall mounting)
18-gauge nails for pneumatic nailer
Black spray paint

(Additional material for four-legged console)

2 “Queen Anne” ash table legs
1 metal square, 1 7/8"

Cutting list

Sand the edges smooth as needed.

*Sides F are made from a piece identical to front E, which is then cut into lengths of 9 ¾" from each of its ends.


Parts	Quantity	Material	Dimensions
A - Top	1	Laminated pine ¾"	12" x 32"
B - Leg	2	Ash	28"
C - Cleat	4	Pine strip, ¾" x ¾"	2"
D - Back	1	Pine ¾"	1 ¾" x 28 7/8"
E - Front	1	Pine ¾"	4 ½" x 27 ½"
F - Side*	2	Pine ¾"	4 ½" x 9 ¾"

Preparation

Draw the basic template on a piece of card measuring 12" x 30". To do this, first draw a rectangle measuring 6" x 27 ½", which will represent the front board. Next, using a drawing compass, draw arcs on the rectangle with radiuses of 3", 7 ½" and 14 ¼", following the marks and measurements shown in the illustration. Cut out the resulting template.

If your compass is not large enough to draw the circle with the 14 ¼" radius, use a pencil attached to a string tied around a nail.

Reproduce the template on two pine boards of 6" x 27 ½" and cut out the pattern with the scroll saw.

Run a Freud 38-352 router bit along the curved edges of the two pine boards.

Keep one of the boards to make front E and cut the other board to a length of 9 ¾" from each of its ends. These two new 9 ¾" pieces will now become sides F.

Using the compass, draw a circle with a ¾" radius in each front corner of top A. Cut along the circle’s edge between the adjacent sides of the table, to round off the table corners.

Run the router along all the visible edges of A.

With the countersink bit, pre-drill holes in cleats C on two adjacent sides: two holes on one side and one hole in the centre of the other side. Make sure that the holes are staggered.

Screw two cleats C onto each table leg (1 ¼" screws), juxtaposed and forming a right angle between them.

Assembly

Fasten legs B to front E and sides F, screwing into the cleats (1 ¼" screws). Use a manual screwdriver to avoid damaging the wood.

Nail back D to sides F with the pneumatic nailer and 18-gauge nails.

Turn top A upside down, then place the leg assembly on top of it so that back D is aligned with the back of A and sides F are centred (approx. 3/8" from the edges). Fasten using a square and ½" screws.

Paint the console with the spray paint, following the manufacturer’s instructions. As a general rule, several fine layers of paint give the best results. Leave to dry.

Wall mounting

Since this project is designed for the bathroom, the following instructions include tips on how to fix the console to a tiled wall.

Using a stud finder, locate two wall studs in the place you would like to put your console, and mark their position. Wall studs are usually spaced 16" apart, centre to centre.

Lean the console up against the wall in the desired location. Pre-drill the two mounting holes in back D, aligned with the wall studs. Insert a pencil tip through the holes to mark their position on the wall, then remove the console.

Stick wide masking tape onto the tiles over the marks made for the screw holes. This will prevent the tiles from cracking when you drill.

Slowly drill into the tiles on a low speed; do not apply too much pressure as you drill. Use a carbide-tipped bit.

Remove the masking tape, then screw the console to the wall with the 2 ¾" screws; do not tighten with the driver drill but finish the job with a manual screwdriver.