Interior doors

They are so pervasive in our daily lives that we scarcely seem to notice them anymore. Yet a properly selected and installed interior door can enhance any décor… and perhaps force us to take notice! Hence the importance of making sure you choose the right model.
Video Installing a door
Project guide service
Related Projects
Related Tips
Page 1/4
Terminology
Elements that must be considered first
Types of Doors
Door Opening Concepts
Accessories

Terminology

The following definitions will help you understand this guide and to better express yourself when shopping for a door.
  • Doorjamb, doorframe or door-case: framing that surrounds the door; the door is fastened to this assembly using hinges.

  • Door header: horizontal section at the top of the doorjamb onto which the door track (if applicable) is fastened.

  • Framing/Moulding: decorative moulding that covers the gap between the frame and the wall.

  • Door stop: moulding installed around the entire doorframe to prevent the door from exceeding its course.

  • Hinge: pivoting metal assembly used to fasten the door to the frame in order to allow the door to swing. Up until the mid-1990s, most doors were held in place using two hinges only. Today, the standard is three hinges per door. This helps to prevent the door from warping.

Elements that must be considered first

In order to select the right door and avoid nasty surprises, several elements must be considered.
Opening the door to the left or right
The direction of the door refers to the direction the door swings when it is pushed open from the closed position (as opposed to being pulled).

In the case of a replacement unit, you already know the opening direction of the door. When installing a door for the first time, the choice is yours. Keep in mind that this requires careful consideration. First, check to see if there are any obstacles that may prevent the door from being opened all the way (angled wall, counter, piece of furniture or other household item in proximity to the intended door location); then, make sure that the door will not impede circulation, prevent the displacement of furniture or restrict access to other rooms when opened.

You may also want to install the door so that it deliberately hides an item when open (such as a water heater or toilet, etc.). After carefully considering all aspects of the installation, you will have a better idea if the door should open into the room or towards the outside and whether it should open to the left or towards the right.

If none of the available options appeals to you or is practical in terms of your specific installation, you should consider buying a pocket door or a folding door.
Initial installation or replacement
  • If your project is an initial installation, you will need a frame to support the door.

    You have two available options: buy a door already fastened to the frame and ready for installation, or buy a stand-alone frame onto which the door must be installed.

    Ready-to-install units are offered in "open to the left" and "open to the right" models. Keep in mind that the opening direction is the direction the door swings when pushed.

    Stand-alone frames are made of three lengths of wood and must be assembled. These units typically come with the door stops installed and are pre-notched to allow for flush mounting of the hinges. Frames come in different sizes and may be cut to height or width to adapt to any opening. Keep in mind that the side with the hinge notches must be installed on the appropriate side of the frame and in the right direction.

    Pocket doors, which are inserted into the wall, require a prefabricated frame designed specifically for this kind of installation and must be installed before the walls are closed.

  • If the door you are installing is only a replacement unit, there’s no need to buy a new frame. Simply use the existing frame, unless of course it’s damaged. Depending on the age of your home, you will have to purchase either a pre-machined door (i.e. already adapted for the hinges and handle) or a non-machined model, which will require that the hole for the handle and the notches for the hinges be cut.

    If the home was built after the mid-1990s, the door to be replaced probably has three hinges and the centre of the handle bore is 36 in. from the bottom of the door. Consequently, a pre-machined door should fit this type of installation.

    If the home was built prior to this, chances are that the installation is non-standard (even if there are three hinges) and it is recommended that you take exact measurements before buying a pre-machined door. In fact, your best choice is probably a non-machined door, which will require that you cut the handle bore and hinge notches. Your local renovation centre should have a selection of tools specifically designed for this application.
Dimensions
The standard height for a door opening is usually 80 inches; this may vary depending on the location of the home. What’s more, standards are often overlooked when door installations must be adapted to fit rooms with high ceilings, for example.

Door widths range from 24 inches to 36 inches for single door installations (install a double door if the opening is more than 36 in.) with 30-inch doors used in most rooms. There are two notable exceptions: the door leading to the basement and the washer/dryer room should be at least 32 in. wide in order to accommodate the passage of large household items and appliances.

When replacing a door, measure the width of the frame at three different points (the top, in the middle and at the bottom) and take note of the smallest measurement. Repeat this process for the height, subtract ½ in. for the clearance between the floor and the door, and purchase your door according to the resulting dimensions.

For new installations, the choice is up to you. Provide for an opening at least 1 inch larger and higher than the door case. This space is used for the insertion of the shims required to adjust the entire assembly. (See our guide entitled "Installing a pre-built interior door").

Wider doors and double doors are becoming more and more popular. In addition to preventing the occasional run-in between your shoulder and the doorframe and facilitating the passage of furniture, they are wide enough to allow for wheelchair access as required.

If your local retailer does not stock a door that matches your height requirements, you may also opt to order a custom-made door. Another alternative would be to buy a door taller than required and cut the bottom to the appropriate height; make sure that the door you intend to buy may be cut before you buy it.
Page 1/4