Wood heating is becoming increasingly popular in Canada. In fact, there are presently some three million Canadian homes using this type of heating. A wood stove may be used to supplement other heat sources or it may be used as a primary heat source. The unequalled ambience and heat provided by a wood stove and the development of new technologies contribute to its popularity and stimulate the interest of potential buyers.
The present article explains in detail the steps you should follow for the installation of a wood stove in the basement of your home. In it, you will find a list of the materials and tools needed as well as the security precautions and standards to respect.
It's been proven that 75% of heating-system-related fires are caused by inadequate or incorrect installation. That's why it's so important to respect your municipality's bylaws.
Cities have jurisdiction on the installation of wood heating systems. Their bylaws supersede the regulations of such organizations as the Canadian Standards Association (CSA), the Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (ULC) and the Building Code. Before beginning installation, consult your city's fire department and the city's building code. If your city hasn't enacted its own bylaws on the subject, you must conform to the national standards.
Also, you must contact your insurance company and establish whether it has special requirements pertaining to such installations, remembering that such requirements do not have the force of law. If you can't get coverage from your current insurer, you may wish to find an insurer whose requirements will not exceed those of your municipality. Whatever the case, be sure to get a written authorization from your insurer, stating clearly that the insurer knows about your plan and agrees to insure you.
The location
It is important to carefully plan the location of your wood-burning heater as well as the chimney, no matter which model you have chosen (advanced combustion wood stove, pellet stove, fireplace insert or masonry heater). The placement of the chimney will have a strong influence on the efficiency of the heating system. Avoid running the chimney up an exterior wall. It is preferable to install it on the inside, in a straight line if possible, as this will optimise heat distribution. An interior chimney, warmed by the ambient air of the building, will remain warmer and therefore create a more efficient draft than an exterior chimney.
Clearance
The clearance corresponds to the space between the stove and the combustible surfaces (the rear and side walls, the floor and the ceiling). Note that the clearance for a certified stove may differ from that of a non-certified stove. For the purpose of this article we assume that you will be installing a tested and certified wood stove. Refer to the current standards for your area when determining the clearance that you should respect. The clearance differs according to the type of stove. It is therefore important to consult the manufacturer’s recommendations. The type of heat shield used behind and beside the stove may also affect the clearance required. The most commonly used heat shields and those used for the purpose of this article are Pyrok panels. These are cement panels which are offered in a 4 × 8 ft format or a 4 × 10 ft format. To cut or drill the Pyrok panels, you will need a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade as well as carbide drill bits.
The floor pad
The non-combustible floor pad protects the flooring from embers which may escape from a stove in use. Once the Pyrok panels are installed, you may recover them in a resistant, non-combustible material such as sheet metal, ceramic tiles or brick. The floor pad should extend at least 45 cm (18 in) in front of the loading door and 20 cm (8 in ) to the sides and behind the stove.
1. Prepare the surface upon which the wood stove will rest
As we are installing the stove in the basement, remove the section of moquette (or other flooring) corresponding to the size of the floor pad that you wish to install. To do this, you may use a carpet knife (with curved blade) or other tools depending on the type of flooring. You may use a felt marker to mark your reference points before cutting.
Note: Ensure that the floor is level before proceeding to the next step. If this is not the case, there are various products on the market which may be used to remedy the situation, for example, liquid cement.
2. Prepare the floor pad
Using your circular saw, equipped with a carbide blade, cut the Pyrex panel to the dimensions determined in the previous step. Then apply the non-combustible adhesive to one side of the panel as well as to the surface of the floor.
Important: As well as being non-combustible, the type of adhesive used for this project must retain its adhesive properties when exposed to extreme heat.
3. Install the floor pad
Raising the floor pad
Place the floor pad on the floor at the prepared location. Put a heavy object on top to facilitate adhesion to the floor.
It is possible to raise the floor pad as needed (to avoid an obstacle for example). To do this, various materials are at your disposition, notably cement or brick blocks. Consult an expert who can help you to make the right choice.
The heat shield
The heat shield must be spaced out at least 22 mm (7/8 in) from the wall by non-combustible spacers (furrings). The minimum distance between the floor and the bottom of the shield is 76 mm (3 in). The same distance applies to the upper edge if you are using a shield which reaches to the ceiling. There are some heat shields on the market which may be installed directly on the combustible wall surfaces.
4. Take the measurements of the heat shield
Respecting the clearance requirements for your wood-burning heater, use a tape measure to take the measurements of the wall heat shield. Note that the heat shield should extend to at least 20 in above and 18 in on either side of the stove. Respect these standards when taking your measurements.
Next, using a circular saw equipped with a carbide blade, cut the panels of your heat shield to the measurements previously taken.
Install the furrings
Determine the exact location of the vertical studs using a stud detector. With a pencil, mark the position of the studs.
Attach the non-combustible furrings to the wall using screws appropriate to the vertical supports. Ensure that the screws bite into the studs!
5. Install the heat shield
With someone’s help, place the panel temporarily against the furrings and mark the location of the holes to be drilled. Remove the panel and drill the holes using a drill equipped with a carbide bit. Once again, place the panel against the furrings and, using the appropriate screws, screw it solidly in place.
6. Re-covering the floor pad and the heat shields
Once the floor pad and heat shields are securely in place, you may cover the panels using the material of your choice, for example, ceramic tiles.
7. Assemble the stove
Remove the stove from its wrappings and place the central unit upside-down on the floor pad. Screw the legs to this central unit and right it. Arrange the firebricks inside the stove.
You may now go on to assemble the chimney of your stove.
Maintenance
As a general rule, slow-burning wood stoves require very little maintenance. You may make a visual inspection once a month to verify that no parts are damaged. Inspect the glass regularly, as well, to detect any cracks. Finally, never clean the glass with an abrasive product, instead, use a specialised product sold in a hardware store.
Now that your stove is assembled, you have only to arrange the firebricks on the inside. Do this according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In all cases, the following order should be respected: install the bottom bricks first, the back bricks second, the right bricks third and the left bricks last. Once the bricks are installed, you may insert the log holder, continuing to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Your stove should now serve you for many long years!