Installing a floating modular subfloor system

Presented by: Subflor

This system makes use of an Integrated Moisture Barrier to create warm, dry floors over concrete. Each floor panel is surfaced with top-quality wood manufactured with water-resistant natural resins and waxes. On the underside is heavy-duty polyethylene plastic that elevates the floor and helps underlying moisture evaporate.
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1. Getting Started
2. The installation
3. Installation around fixed objects
4. Adding walls
It keeps rooms with concrete floors dry in 3 ways:
The heavy-duty polyethylene plastic on the underside of each floor panel creates an air gap above the concrete. The air in this space and the panel itself create a thermal break and act as insulation to keep floors warm.
In basements, the polyethylene layer is a barrier to the dampness that naturally rises through the porous concrete. Any moisture that collects, including the small leaks that so often occur in basements, can flow freely under the panels to the floor drain with no damage to the panels or the finishes applied overtop. The air gap also allows the concrete to breathe and dry, ensuring a healthier living environment.

This is an ergonomic, resilient product that provides the ideal surface for healthful walking and play. At the same time, it is strong enough to support the heaviest objects, such as pool tables or exercise equipment.

1. Getting Started

Tip: It is recommended that you allow the panels to acclimatize 24hrs in the area in which they will be installed.

NOTE: the actual size of a panel is 23 1/16" x 23 1/16"(nominal 2'x'2' panel)

1.1 

Remove any minor irregularities found on the supporting floor. Any cracks and low spots in the floor greater than 1/4 inch should be repaired with the proper floor-leveling compound. As a final check, sweep or vacuum the area to be covered.

1.2 

The system is to be installed as a free-floating floor. The panels are not to be glued, nailed or screwed to the supporting floor. An expansion gap of 3/8" inch (min.) is required around the perimeter and all fixed objects

1.3 

The panels are designed to follow the natural slope of your supporting floor. If you feel that height adjustment is necessary, the leveling kit can be utilized. These leveling supports are easily stacked together for desired height and are designed to "nest" onto the base of the panels.

2. The installation

2.1 

Start at one of the corners and place the panel (wood side up) with grooved (flat) edge facing the wall. Be sure to choose the corner of the room that will require the least amount of cutting on the first row.

Using the appropriate inch floor spacers against the perimeter, slide the next panel into place connecting the tongue and groove on each panel. Use a tapping block and hammer to ensure the panels are snug. Repeat this process for the length of the wall.

Tip: On unfinished walls 1"x2" wood strapping placed on edge could be used as a spacer in this situation.

2.2 

The final panel in this row will likely have to be cut to fit properly. Measure to fit, leaving the required expansion gap from the wall. Cut the panel to size and pull into place with a pull bar. The cut piece must be at least 6 inches wide. If the last panel will be less the 6 inches wide, then reduce the width of the first panel to compensate. The same holds true for the other length of the room.

Start the next row with a panel cut to the same length as the last piece of the first row. This will ensure that the panels will be evenly staggered.

2.3 

Continue laying the floor. The third row should look like the first row and the fourth row should look like the second and so on. This will ensure that the panels will be evenly staggered.

Tip: Because the floor is free floating it can be easily adjusted during the installation process.

The last row will once again likely have to be cut to fit properly. Measure to fit, leaving the required expansion gap from the wall. Cut panels and pull into place with the pull bar.

Tip: When measuring, be sure to take into consideration the fact that all panels must lock into place.

When the floor is complete, removes all spacers around the perimeter and fixed objects.

3. Installation around fixed objects

A 1/4" inch expansion gap must be maintained around all fixed objects such as stairways, poles and cabinets

Measure and mark on the panel the area to be cut. Be sure to take into consideration the fact that the panels will be locked into place and that an expansion gap is necessary. The portion that is cut can be reused to fill in the gap on the other side of the object once the panel is in place.

4. Adding walls

Interior walls can be built right on top of your basement flooring system. This is the only situation where we would recommend fastening the panels to the concrete floor.

Install the wood or steel framed walls directly on top of the panels as you would on the supporting floor. The fit between the floor and ceiling should be snug. Screw the bottom plates of the wall into the panels using 2 1/4" wood screws (1/2" wood screws for metal studs). Secure top plate to joists.

This system is designed to be a floating floor however, you may wish to anchor walls to the supporting floor especially near door openings. To anchor the wall system, use 3 1/2" concrete nails or self-tapping concrete screws placed at the end of each wall and in the middle
Top it off!

Once you have completely installed your flooring system, you can choose the floor covering to match your needs. Laminate flooring, engineered Hardwood flooring, carpeting, vinyl/ceramic, it is up to you. Be sure to follow the instructions provided by the flooring manufacturer.

* It is recommended to use 1/4" underlayment for vinyl tile, and a concrete board for ceramic tiles because it would require an absolutely solid surface.
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