Installing a floating floor (laminate or cork)

Manufactured entirely from natural wood products, today’s floating floors not only provide the rich look of hardwood, they cost less and are easier to install and maintain. As long as you follow certain installation procedures, floating floors may be installed on almost any surface.
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Installation advice
1. Preparing the floor
2. Installing the first row
3. Measuring the last plank
4. Scribe the wall line
5. Staggering the joints
6. Assembling the planks
7. Cutting the doorframe
8. Installing the last planks
9. Dealing with pipes and protrusions
10. Maintenance

Installation advice

Floor planks must be stored on a flat surface (in their original packaging) at room temperature (18°C or 64°F) for at least 48 hours prior to installation. Before beginning any installation, inspect all materials to ensure they are free from defects.

All joints must be tight fitting. Use sealant to fill any significant gaps (e.g.: around pipes). Protective mouldings should also be installed in all heavy traffic areas, such as hallways.

It is recommended that expansion joints (20 mm/1 in.) be installed between rooms, as well as within rooms larger than 80 square meters (860 sq. ft.) and longer than 10 meters (35 ft.) - when planks are installed lengthwise.

Some manufacturers recommend that planks be installed parallel to the primary source of light in the room while others recommend the opposite. Regardless of the layout you ultimately choose, keep in mind that if you decide to install a model with bevelled edges, they will have an obvious effect on the look of the room. If, for example, you would like to “add width” in a particularly long room, planks should be installed across the width. If you have any doubts about your layout, don’t hesitate to ask your decorator or a home-décor specialist.

1. Preparing the floor

Laminate floors:
For installation on a concrete basement floor: install an underlayment (with felt and vapour-barrier) in the same direction as the floor planks. Do not overlap the joints. Though they are less common, a separate vapour-barrier and felt installation (two-layer installation) may also be used.

For installation on a wood subfloor in the basement: install an underlayment with vapour-barrier and polyethylene foam.

For installation on a wood floor on the ground floor or upper levels: simply install a polyethylene foam underlayment.

Cork floors:
For installation on a concrete floor or wood subfloor in the basement: simply install a vapour-barrier film. Overlap the joints by 20 cm (8 in.) and make sure the film extends 5 cm (2 in.) up the walls.

For installation on a wood floor on the ground floor or upper levels: install directly on the floor if the floor is in good condition or on top of a polyethylene foam underlayment, if not.

2. Installing the first row

Select the appropriate corner of the room and start laying down planks with the tongues (male interlocks) facing the wall and the grooves (female interlocks) exposed – or facing the centre of the room. This is critical as plank installation requires that the tongues be inserted into the grooves and not the opposite. Install the first row of planks following the line of the wall.

Changes in moisture and temperature levels may cause the planks of your floating floor to expand. To ensure that the required 8 mm (5/16 in.) expansion gap is maintained between the planks and walls at all times, spacers must be used (the recommended spacing may vary from one brand to the next and may also be affected by the installation materials used; for the purposes of this text, a 5/16 in. gap is used). When inserting and adjusting planks, never strike them directly with the hammer. Instead, use a tapping block to ensure a proper fit.

3. Measuring the last plank

To obtain the exact measurement of the last plank in a given row, turn it 180° (pattern facing up) and lay it next to the row of installed planks. Make sure that the groove on the plank to be measured and the one on the previously installed row are set one against the other and remember to leave an 8 mm (5/16 in.) space at the end of the plank. If you are using a manual saw, always saw through the top of the plank to avoid splintering. If you are using a jigsaw or circular saw, saw through the bottom of the plank.

4. Scribe the wall line

The installed planks must follow the wall line. If the wall isn't straight, you must scribe the wall line on the first row of planks using a spacing block. You can then saw planks along their length following the traced wall line or use different sized spacers to ensure that rows are straight.
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