Putting up a fence around your garden may be a matter of necessity or a matter of landscape improvement. Whatever your reason, you'll want to do the job in style. And you'll want to make sure your new fence fits well into your outdoor environment.
Versatile, durable and easy to maintain, treated-wood fences are the current rage. If you’re handy, installing fence panels will be a quick an easy task not to mention you could save a lot on labour costs.
There is sure to be a model in store that would complete your backyard creating a safe and intimate place for the entire family.
The installation of the fence and the hedge is regulated by the municipalities. It is therefore your responsibility to make sure you know all the bylaws. For example, the model and the materials might have to blend in with the architecture of your house or your area. Before starting this project, make sure you know the correct boundaries of your lot, and plot an installation drawing, then measure the entire length.
Erecting the fence can be done in four different ways, either with: metallic posts, gimlets, posts buried directly in the ground or sonotubes. You can view the specifics of each of these techniques on the website rona.ca.
For a more solid assembly, use screws instead of nails. It will be easier to replace a fence board or section in the future if they are screwed. Use screws for treated wood (treated with ceramic) or stainless steel screws. The balance of the hardware should be stainless steel or at least galvanized steel.
1. Determine the general location
Determine the location of your fence by marking the ground with stakes or with spray paint at 6 ft. intervals to position the 4 × 4 in. treated wood posts which will support the fence.
2. Dig holes for the posts
With a mechanical post hole auger, dig holes 8 to 10 in. in diameter and at least 3 ft. 6 in. deep. The ideal depth is 4 ft. to avoid movements due to frost and to get better stability. The distance between the holes must be 6 ft. center to center.
3. Install the posts
After the holes have been dug, lay a bed of gravel (crushed stone 0-¾) 6 in. deep at the bottom of each hole and insert the sonotubes.
3.1
Then, insert the post and a framing steel bar and then fill with concrete.
3.2
Use a portable mixer (made of resistant plastic and shaped like a barrel with a screw lid) for the concrete, which will allow you to mix concrete easily and rapidly. No other tool is needed. Pour the pre-mixed concrete and the water, close the lid tightly and turn the mixer around for about 30 seconds. The deflector system produces a perfect mix. You only need to pour the concrete from the container into the tubes.
3.3
Maintain the post in vertical position and check the plumb with a level for post or a carpenter’s level.
3.4
On top of the concrete, make a slope going away from the post to divert the water.
3.5
Around the sonotube, fill the cavity with stone dust all the way to the surface. Water gently to tamp the stone dust.
4. Preparer for the joist hangers
With a line level hanging from a string tightly drawn between posts, mark the location of the joist hangers on the posts. These hangers will hold the base of the fence panels.
Screw the joist hangers to the posts at the appropriate height.
5. Anchor the panel
Then anchor the base of the sections to the joist hangers, between the posts. Finally, anchor the top part of the sections to the posts.
Using the right equipment, your determination and a bit of elbow grease, the successful completion of this project is just a few steps away!