Installing a carpet

Not only does it give warmth and comfort, carpeting adds to soundproofing and hides any irregularities in the floor. Adding new carpeting will totally change the look of any room.

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Choosing the right carpet

Most carpets offered on the market are made of synthetic materials (nylon, polyester, acrylic, etc.). Wool carpet offers unequalled comfort but is typically very expensive.

Before selecting the type of carpet that best suits your needs, consider the type of weave and material as well as durability. The height of the pile is also another consideration. High pile is more comfortable but harder to clean. Footprints and vacuum cleaner marks will be more visible on carpet with longer fibres. The opposite is also true for short pile. High shaggy pile will add warmth and comfort to a living room or bedroom while short pile (commercial type) carpet is ideal for the basement or entrance.

The importance of carpet padding

Padding is another component that must be considered when purchasing carpet. It is offered in a variety of materials including rubber, synthetic fibres or urethane and plays a crucial role: it absorbs up to 90% of the impact of foot treads and increases the carpet's lifespan.

Choose quality padding, it will maintain the carpet's comfort and appearance. The ideal padding thickness is between 5/16 in and 3/8 in (8 mm and 10 mm). Before selecting padding, test its resistance by pinching it between your thumb and index finger.

1. Take the measurements

On graph paper, draw a plan of the room you wish to carpet, scaling it one square foot per square. Calculate the length of the walls and jot down your measurements without forgetting the closet space.

To test whether the walls are perfectly parallel, measure the distance between the walls at different areas. For leeway, add 3 in (76 mm) to the length and width measurements obtained.

Remember that carpet is normally delivered in 12 ft (3.7 m) wide rolls. If your room is larger, you will require a second roll and will need to seam the carpet as indicated in steps 5 and 6.

Make sure when laying the carpet that the pile is facing the same direction, that is, from the window towards the inside of the room.

2. Prepare the room

For easier installation, remove the room door and closet door. Carefully examine the floor before laying out the padding. Make sure all floorboards are solid and nails flush.

3. Cut and nail strips

Cut a length of tackless strip to fit each wall and door opening. Nail the strips around the perimeter of the room with the pointed pins in each strip facing the wall. Leave a space between the tackless strip and the wall that equals the thickness of the carpet.

4. Install the padding

Lay the padding on the floor, inside the tackless strip. Use a utility knife to trim the excess padding and cover each seam with duct tape. Staple padding to floor every 12 in (305 mm). A basement floor will not require padding (if you are using commercial carpeting), instead glue the carpeting directly onto the cement.

5. 

Roll out the carpet and cut it, adding 3 in (76 mm) at both ends. Slot the corners to lay flat.

Plan carpet seams for less busy areas of the room. Seams should be perpendicular to the main window or source of light. Before cutting the carpet, trace the cutting line with a pencil to separate the pile. This way, only the back of the carpet will be cut.

Make sure when laying the carpet that the pile is facing the same direction, that is, from the window towards the inside of the room.

6. Seam the carpet

Cut a length of seaming tape and centre it under the two carpet sections to be joined. Use a seaming iron to melt the adhesive by slowly pulling the iron down the tape. Once the adhesive is melted, immediately press the carpet edges together over the tape.

7. Seat the first corner

Stretch the carpet over the tackless strip. Starting in one corner, use the knee kicker to attach the carpet. Using the flat side of a hammer, hook the carpet to the tackless strip. Repeat this operation along the adjacent wall to seat the first corner.

8. Stretch and attach the carpet

Once one corner is hooked, use the power stretcher to stretch the carpet to the opposite wall. Put the base of the power stretcher at the wall that was just hooked with the knee kicker, and dig the teeth of the power stretcher into the carpet about 6 in (152 mm) from the opposite wall. Press down the lever and lock it into place, stretching the carpet and attaching it to the tackless strips. Repeat for the last wall.

9. Finishing

Use a utility knife to trim the excess carpet at each wall. Push the edges of the carpet between the wall and the tackless strips. Finish by nailing quarter round over the carpet along the walls.
Installing your own carpet is relatively easy but working in tight quarters may complicate the task. Also, remember that carpet is sold in 12 ft (3.7 m) wide rolls, which makes it very heavy.

Although most carpets are treated to be stain-resistant and not hold static, carpeting of any quality should be regularly maintained. Vacuum your carpet at least once a week and have it professionally cleaned once a year.
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