Build a fireplace mantel with tiled surround - oasis style

The key to making an electric fireplace look like the real thing is simply to treat it as such, i.e. by embellishing it with everything a true fireplace should have, like a chimney breast, mantel and tiled hearth. So go on, take the plunge—the results speak for themselves!

Level 2: Week-end project
Ceramic calculator
Drywall calculator
Basement framing calculator
Related Projects
Page 1/1
List of tools
List of materials
Fake chimney breast
Preparing the parts
Building the fake chimney
Tiling
Installing the mantel and shelf
To install a built-in electric fireplace, you will need to build a cavity, such as a fake chimney breast, which is constructed in the same way as a regular interior wall. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the measurements of the fireplace opening and don’t forget you will need a power outlet inside the cavity. Once this work is complete, you can decorate the fireplace surround and hearth with mosaic or regular ceramic tiles and add an attractive mantel and shelf. Cozy look guaranteed!

List of tools

  • Circular saw
  • Drywall knife
  • Driver drill
  • Square
  • Level
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil
  • Rubber float
  • Notched trowel
  • Rubber mallet
  • Tile nippers
  • Pail
  • Sponge
  • Drywall joint knife (applicator with a flexible blade like a putty knife)
  • Sandpaper

List of materials

  • 2 drywall panels 48" x 96"
  • 10 pieces 2" x 4" x 96"
  • 2 3/4" No. 8 screws
  • 1 1/4" drywall screws
  • Screw-in wall anchors
  • Tile edge trim
  • Wall and floor tile adhesive
  • Tile grout
  • Small ceramic tiles
  • Self-adhesive fibreglass tape
  • Metal corners for drywall panels
  • Drywall compound
  • Primer and paint
  • Silicone

Fake chimney breast

Read the fireplace manufacturer’s instructions to know what size to make the opening. Note that studs are always installed vertically while ribbon strips, girths and cross pieces are always installed horizontally.

Preparing the parts

The fake chimney breast is built from 2" x 4"s. Several different parts are required:
  • 2 ceiling and floor ribbon strips A, cut to 11", for the sides of the chimney breast
  • 2 ceiling and floor ribbon strips B, cut to the length of the fireplace mantel plus 16", for the front of the chimney breast
  • 8 to 10 studs C, cut to the required length, to fasten between two ribbon strips
  • 1 or 2 studs D, cut to the required length, to fasten between the ceiling ribbon strip and the top cross piece of the fireplace opening
  • 1 or 2 studs E, cut to the required length, to fasten between the floor ribbon strip and the bottom cross piece of the fireplace opening
  • 3 cross pieces F, cut to the required length according to the fireplace manufacturer’s instructions, to mark the top and bottom of the opening
  • 2 girths G, cut to 8", to fit between the side studs
  • 6 to 8 girths H, cut to 16", to fit between the front studs
  • 3 braces I: cut to 7 1/2", to form the shelf that will support the fireplace

Building the fake chimney

Click on the picture
  1. Fasten two ribbon strips A to the ceiling, at right angles to the existing wall and spaced the width of the prefabricated fireplace mantel plus 16" apart ((i.e. an additional 8" to either side of the mantel). Fasten the other ribbon strips A to the floor, lined up with those on the ceiling.

  2. Screw two studs C to the existing wall studs, between the ribbon strips.

  3. Screw another stud to the free end of each ribbon strip, to obtain two new ‘walls’ of 11" perpendicular to the existing wall, which will form the sides of the fake chimney breast.

  4. Install ribbon strips B at ceiling and floor level between the front ends of the new walls. These strips mark the width of the fake chimney breast.

  5. Between the front ribbon strips, install two studs C which will mark the sides of the fireplace opening.

  6. Install top and bottom cross pieces F between these studs to frame the fireplace opening. Place the bottom cross piece 5/8" below the manufacturer’s recommended measurement, to allow for the thickness of the drywall that will be installed later to make the fireplace shelf.

  7. Screw the third cross piece F to the existing wall, opposite the opening but 1 1/2" lower than the front bottom cross piece. These two cross pieces will support the fireplace shelf.

  8. Make the fireplace shelf as follows: screw one end of each of the three braces I to the front bottom cross piece F, then rest their other end on the cross piece F attached to the wall and screw into place.

  9. Install studs every 16" along the front of the chimney breast up to the fireplace opening. Studs C are installed between the ceiling and floor ribbon strips, while studs D are used above top cross piece F and studs E below bottom cross piece F.

  10. Screw girths G between the side studs and girths H between the front studs, 48" from the ground. Irregular-sized girths (other than 16") may be necessary for the front, depending on the dimensions of the chimney breast.

  11. Screw the drywall panelling to the new wall structures.

  12. Cut out the opening for the fireplace

  13. Screw a piece of drywall, cut from the piece removed from the opening, onto the shelf structure formed by cross pieces F and braces I.

  14. Finish the drywall joints, sand, and apply a coat of primer.

Tiling

On the floor
The original floor covering will need to be removed in the area to be tiled, so that the new tiles come level with the rest of the flooring.

  1. Arrange the tiles on the ground in the desired pattern. Use spacers as necessary. Define the edges of this area, adding 1/8" on each side and along the front (for the metal trim), then remove the tiles.

  2. Cut and carefully remove the old flooring within the defined area.

  3. If your tiles are thinner than the existing flooring, apply a layer of fast-drying cement to bring the floor up to the right height. Leave to dry.

  4. Spread tile adhesive over the floor with the notched trowel, keeping all the grooves going in the same direction.

  5. Install the metal edge trim around the hearth area to be tiled.

  6. Lay the tiles around the edge, then those in the middle, and continue from there, twisting each tile a little to work it into the adhesive. Tap the tiles lightly with a rubber mallet to help them adhere better.
On the wall

  1. Place the mantel where you want it to go on the chimney breast and pencil in the position of the inside edges. Remove the mantel.

  2. Draw a vertical line in the exact centre of the wall surface to be tiled.

  3. Spread tile adhesive and start laying the wall tiles at the vertical line, working out from the opening towards the mantel. Cut any tiles as required. Leave the adhesive to set for 24 hours.

Installing the mantel and shelf

The prefabricated mantel and shelf are equipped with mounting hooks that fasten to the wall with screws.

  1. Mark the position of the mantel support hardware on the wall and screw in the anchors at those points.

  2. Insert the support screws into the anchors.

  3. Attach the mantel.

  4. Install the shelf in the same way as the mantel.
Finishing tiling

  1. Dampen the floor tiles with a sponge.

  2. Pour a small amount of grout over the tiles and spread it out with a rubber float held at a 45° angle.

  3. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge. Leave to dry for 24 hours and wipe clean again.

  4. Connect the fireplace to the power supply and slide it into the opening.

  5. Install baseboards along the bottom of the wall.

  6. Paint the drywall and run a silicone seal around the edge of the fireplace mantel.

    For the ultimate touch of authenticity, fit a damper key above the fire to open and close a fake ‘vent’, or decorate the hearth with real logs and a poker.
Page 1/1