Almost anything can be painted: Let us show you how!

At one time or another, whether to change the ambiance in a room or better suit the décor, we’ve all repainted a wall or two in our homes. It is one of the most common household projects and, as such, most of us have acquired the requisite technique to successfully complete the task.

But what about projects where paint must be applied on other surfaces such as metal, ceramic or concrete? Each of these surfaces requires its own unique approach and raises its own set of questions. How should the surface be prepared to ensure proper paint adhesion? What type of paint should be used? Are there any special maintenance requirements? Whatever the surface and whatever the question, you’ll find your answers here...


    NOTE: Terms followed by an asterisk (*) are described in the lexicon at the end of the guide. Handling instructions for each product are also included for your convenience.
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Metals
Appliances
Ceramic Tiles
Bathtubs
Acoustic Tiles
Glass
PVC (other than exterior siding)
Wood
Rattan and Wicker
Vinyl Siding
Prefinished Interior Siding
Concrete and Masonry
Asphalt
Melamine and Laminated Countertops
Bare Gypsum and Plaster
Scaling Paint
Lexicon of products mentioned in this guide.

Metals

Metals such as iron, steel, cast iron, galvanized metals, aluminium, copper, brass, bronze, etc. are used to produce countless everyday items. The application of coatings on each of these surfaces requires special attention to ensure the beauty and durability of the finish. Regardless of the surface you intend to paint, there is one rule that is absolute: never paint in direct sunlight.
    Bare or previously painted iron or steel
    Wrought iron and steel are used for numerous applications around the house: garden arbours, ramps, gazebos, siding, etc. Many of these metal products are designed for outdoor use and require adequate protection from the elements as a result.

    Start by removing any rust, flakes, excess solder and other surface debris using a metal brush (for small surfaces) or sandblasting system (for irregularly shaped or large surfaces). Apply a conditioner/rust-remover* on the metal surface, rinse with water and wipe dry. To prevent the reappearance of rust, begin application of a rustproofing primer in the shortest possible timeframe following the cleaning process (within 4 hours). Apply metal paint.
    Steel and wrought iron with factory primer
    Some steel and wrought iron products (such as garden furniture) are delivered with a coat of factory-applied paint or primer. This coating promotes paint adhesion and improves the durability of the finish. Paint may be applied directly on these items following a simple cleaning operation.

    Clean all surfaces with paint thinner* to remove any grease, oil, dust or dirt. If the primer was damaged or scratched, allowing rust to form on the exposed surface, remove any rust using a steel brush or emery cloth (sandpaper) and clean the affected area with thinner. Allow to dry before applying metal paint.
    Galvanized steel
    - Galvanized steel
    Among its many applications, galvanized steel is used to make roofs for homes, fences and siding for garden sheds. Painting galvanized metals requires particular attention in terms of the products to be used and, more importantly, in terms of those to be avoided.

    Use paint thinner* to remove any significant accumulations of grease or oil. Then, treat the entire surface (particularly the sections with exposed rust) with a metal conditioner/rust-remover* to ensure proper paint adhesion. Touch-up rusted sections with a primer before applying metal paint.

    Caution: Never use muriatic (chlorhydric) acid, vinegar (acetic acid), copper sulphate or any other product not specifically designed for such use on galvanized metals; these products will accelerate the oxidization process and lead to the premature deterioration of the metal.
    Aluminium and light alloys
    Aluminium, which is used to manufacture various household products such as ramps, exterior siding, window frames and doorsills, may also be painted. In certain situations, it may even be preferable. Without delivering an entire course on metallurgy, the basic fact is: when aluminium comes into contact with other metals, especially in the presence of liquid conductors (electrolytes), chlorides or stagnant water, it may develop visible signs of corrosion (pitting or water marks).

    Before painting any aluminium surface, clean it using a metal conditioner/rust-remover* and rinse it. If the surface is rust-free, you may paint it directly using an acrylic latex paint. If there are signs of rust, remove the spots using a conditioner/rust-remover product or emery cloth (sandpaper), and touch-up these areas with a primer before painting.
    Copper, brass and bronze
    There are many reasons that may require you to paint door handles, hinges or other ornaments made of brass, bronze or copper. The good news is - these metals are easy to paint.

    Clean the entire surface using a metal conditioner/rust-remover*. No primer is required: simply apply the finishing varnish or paint (latex on copper and acrylic latex or alkyd on brass or bronze) directly on the clean metal surface. If the metal finish is particularly glossy, a light sanding with 240-grade sandpaper will help improve adhesion. Copper pipes must be completely dry before paint is applied.

Appliances

Though they work well and should continue to serve your household needs for years to come, are your household appliances starting to look a little worse for wear? A coat of paint will help you solve the problem. Note: The following is not intended for appliances with stainless steel or chrome finishes.

Clean the surface with a trisodium phosphate (T.S.P.)* solution and rinse with water. If required, scrape off any flakes and remove any rust using a conditioner/rust-remover* or emery cloth (sandpaper).

Lightly sand the surface (using 220-grade sandpaper) in order to improve paint adhesion and wipe the surface clean with an anti-static cloth (sold in most paint departments) to remove any dust remaining from the sanding process. Then, apply an alkyd sealant/primer and let dry.

Use a high-density foam roller to apply urethane or polyurethane paint for melamine. Apply 3 thin coats allowing 12 to 16 hours drying time between coats.

Do not paint the kitchen stove: the paint will quickly start to peel off the top and turn yellow around the edges.

Ceramic Tiles

Clean the tile surface with a trisodium phosphate (T.S.P.)* solution and rinse with water. Allow to dry. Sand the tiles in a circular motion using metal sandpaper (120 to 150-grade). Ideally, an electric sander should be used here as the goal is to remove all of the high-gloss finish and this tends to require serious effort. Wipe the surface clean with a damp rag or an anti-static cloth to remove any dust remaining from the sanding process. Allow to dry (if required) and then apply an alkyd primer-sealant.

Though latex paint is acceptable for this application, oil and alkyd based paints will last longer. There are also specialized paints, designed to emulate a porcelain finish, on the market. To ensure the surface dries properly, the area must remain humidity free for at least one week.

For improved durability of painted ceramic surfaces: immediately wipe up liquid spills, make sure the area remains humidity free (using the appropriate ventilation system), and avoid cutting food directly on ceramic countertops (always use a cutting board).

Bathtubs

The products to be used here vary depending on the type of bathtub surface that requires painting.

    Bathtub exterior (wrought iron or enamelled steel)
    Clean the surface with a trisodium phosphate (T.S.P.)* solution and rinse with water. Allow to dry. If the surface has a high-gloss finish, sand it lightly using fine sandpaper (220-grade). Wipe the surface clean with a damp rag or an anti-static cloth to remove any dust remaining from the sanding process. Apply an alkyd-based primer-sealant using a paintbrush or high-density foam roller. Once dry, apply an oil-based enamel and let dry. Make sure the area remains humidity free for 4 to 5 days.

    Bathtub interior (re-enamelling)
    Before starting this project, you may be interested to know that there are small repair kits (with application brush included) designed for touching-up damaged bathtub finishes. When the situation calls for more than a simple touch-up, but you would still like to keep the bathtub looking like new, there is only one solution: it’s time to break out the paint.

    For optimal results, it is recommended that you use the services of an expert. Bathtub specialists use paint guns and rely on their expertise to ensure a smooth finish on your tub or sink. What’s more, real professionals guarantee their work.

    If, in the end, you decide to handle the project yourself, keep in mind that the finish will not be as smooth as a professional job as you will be applying the paint with a brush.
    The key to the success of this project (durability) is proper preparation. First, remove all joints around the edge of the bathtub and clean the tub thoroughly using a trisodium phosphate (T.S.P.)* solution. Rinse, let dry and lightly sand the surface (220-grade sandpaper) in order to improve paint adhesion.

    Wipe the surface clean with a damp rag or an anti-static cloth to remove any dust remaining from the sanding process and apply a specially designed epoxy paint (sold in two separate containers). Typically, the contents from the first container are applied one day and the contents from the second container are applied the next. Make sure you follow manufacturer instructions. Use a paintbrush to apply the epoxy and try to avoid causing drips during the painting process.

    Wait five days before running water into the bathtub or allowing humidity in the bathroom. Caution: Epoxy products tend to produce strong fumes that may cause discomfort. It is recommended that the area be properly ventilated during the application process.

Acoustic Tiles

Latex paint may be applied directly on acoustic tiles. However, to ensure that stains (resulting from a water leak, for example) do not reappear through the new coat of paint, cover them using an appropriate alcohol-based primer-sealant. Because acoustic tiles typically have a textured surface, a paintbrush must be used to ensure that the paint penetrates to the bottom of the surface formations.

Glass

Whether to provide added privacy or simply create a unique decor, the glass on your windows and doors may also be painted. Warning: This does not produce a "stained glass" effect but makes the glass opaque. To obtain a stained-glass or frosted look, use paint specifically designed for this application and be sure to follow manufacturer instructions.

Clean the surface with trisodium phosphate (T.S.P.)*, rinse with water and let dry. Apply an alkyd-based primer-sealant, allow to dry, and apply the applicable paint (interior or exterior). These paints are usually available in liquid (allowing you to paint without covering the surrounding surfaces) or aerosol form (the surrounding surfaces must be protected but it provides a smoother finish than when applied with a brush). Do not paint in direct sunlight.

PVC (other than exterior siding)

Has the weather taken its toll on your outdoor PVC furniture and accessories? Would you like to make your flower pots look like new again? All they need is a little paint.

Because PVC reacts differently to heat and sunlight depending on its colour, the colour you intend to apply must be lighter than the original colour of the PVC. Dark PVC is designed to resist the effects of the heat it absorbs while light coloured PVC, which reflects the sun and heat, does not provide the same resistance. Result: Dark paint on light coloured PVC will absorb the sun’s rays instead of reflecting them, thereby forcing the PVC to absorb heat it was not designed to handle. This in turn causes the material to soften and results in damages to the component.

Clean the surface with trisodium phosphate (T.S.P.)*, rinse with water and let dry. Apply 100% acrylic latex exterior paint in liquid or aerosol form (the latter provides better results and is easier to apply). There are certain paints on the market specifically designed for use on patio furniture. Though this technique may provide adequate results on rarely used PVC items, results on everyday components (such as patio furniture) may vary, to the point where the paint may even begin to peel. To ensure a lasting finish on patio chairs and tabletops, apply a coat of car wax once the paint is completely dry.

Wood

Whether inside or out, wood provides a distinctive look. Over time, wood surfaces have a tendency to become damaged by the effects of the weather and sunlight. To prevent this, wood surfaces must be properly maintained with opaque or transparent coatings.

    Interior wood – painted finish
    Seal the knots and gum veins in the wood using shellac*. Smooth over the rough areas with sandpaper and clean off the dust. Apply a coat of primer and plug any nail holes or cracks with a sealer or paste wood filler. Apply the selected paint.

    Interior wood – transparent finish
    Carefully remove all dirt, pen marks and glue residues (either by sanding or using a thinner). If there are rust stains, remove them with a conditioner/rust-remover product*. Allow the wood to dry if you applied liquid products. Sand the rough areas in the direction of the wood grain. Apply the selected stain or coat. Finally, plug all remaining holes and cracks using a coloured filler selected to match the wood stain (do not apply the filler before you apply the stain: the repaired sections will stick out like a sore thumb).
    Exterior wood – painted or opaque stain finish
    Make sure that the wood is completely dry. The surface must be clean and free of dirt and grease. As required, lightly sand or clean the surface using thinner* (which you must allow to dry completely). Once the excess resin has been removed or scraped, seal the knots and gum veins with shellac*. Sand any rough areas. Fill any holes or cracks with sealer after the coat of primer is applied. If the wood was previously treated, make sure that the solvent has completely evaporated before painting.
    Exterior wood - semi-transparent stain finish
    Sand the rough areas. Remove all marks, loose wood fibres and stains (caused by mould/mildew or other) by scraping, sanding or applying a liquid wood restorer*; product used to restore damaged wood to its nearly new condition (if wood restorer is used, allow to dry completely before painting).

    After applying semi-transparent stain, plug up the remaining holes and cracks with a coloured filler selected to match the wood stain (do not apply the filler before you apply the stain: the repaired sections will stick out like a sore thumb).
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